Serbia is home to countless splendours and wonders. Even a triangle. Not the Bermuda one, the devil’s dwelling place, but one that is no less secretive. If we imagine Belgrade, Novi Sad and Zrenjanin as its three angles, in the heart of this triangle we will see the tract of land between two rivers, the Tisa and the Stari Begej. The vast bodies of water, freely reflecting the thick vegetation that hides the wonderful world of animals. A little imagination and the queen of all sciences, on our journey to the place where nature earns a perfect ten for its command of mathematics.

Why should you visit Carska Bara?

1. Because the Pannonian Sea has created the Serbian Amazonia

Nothing was left of the vast sea except a mere pond. But it is “the emperor’s pond”. Without the expected glamour and luxury, though. Quite the opposite. Untouched, lush, carefree. The empire of plants and birds. The chirping and wing-clapping echoes through the thick growth of reeds, willow trees and waterlilies. The nature dances a harmonious three-step with the water, grass and woods.

It was named after the Austro-Hungarian aristocrats who used it as their favourite hunting ground. Later on, other nobles also carried their rifles there. Among those who fired their shots were the Habsburg crown princes Rudolf and Franz Ferdinand and King Aleksandar Karađorđević. All three died tragically. And they were not the only ones. Coincidence or not, history should be learnt from, and the only recommended “weapons” are camcorder, camera and binoculars.

Special nature reserve Stari Begej-Carska Bara covers an area of 4,726 hectares and is home to 500 species of plants, around 240 species of birds, 24 species of fish, and a number of endangered and rare mammal species. The area is divided into three zones of protection. Visitors are allowed only in the third. Access to the first zone is strictly prohibited, both for the safety of protected species, and for your own, as it is the home of wild cats and jackals.

Although it is a swampy area, not many mosquitoes buzz by. As in all places where humans never set foot, the nature keeps everything under control. And here, it has truly set its mind to be the mesmerizing “savage”.

2. Because a ride in the emperor’s boat can be unpredictable

The old boat grew tired and earned its retirement, and the new one is already starting its engine. The ride through the watery jungle is incredibly picturesque, and in the company of a chatty, genial ranger, it is also unexpectedly amusing. We listen with great interest the story of the most successful hunter on the planet, but also the biggest bully, the dragonfly. Looks sure can be deceiving. When the female rejects him, he doesn’t give up, and in his crusade he is often known to snap her head off with his claws. But, the females can certainly hold their own. They have tricks up their sleeves. Being of a different colour, the female can quickly change her colour, like a chameleon, to the one characteristic for males, and if that doesn’t fool him, she rolls on her back and plays dead.

Our wonderful host then tells us about the gluttonous cormorants and the ways in which they punish bad people, about the kingfisher, the beautiful and the smallest fish-hunting bird, and the gentle pond turtles. Our even-tempered, good-natured skipper keeps smiling and keeps the anecdotes coming. He tells us that the pond walnut tastes the same as the one we use in cakes and cookies, and that it has to be “picked” before it drops anchor and hooks itself to the bottom. What a duo!

The stories are adjusted to the visitors’ age. The boat “Carica” sets sail on weekends, and it can be rented out for up to 10 people, plus the captain.

Which animals you might meet along the way, you never know. Because nature is not a zoo; it is an adventure, full of surprises and always different.

3. Because you can live like an emperor all day long

With your family, with friends, or with someone you love. The site is modest in size, but is offers various opportunities – bird watching, cycling, hiking along the path of health, children’s playground, a small grassy field where you can play mini football or volleyball, if you tighten the net a little bit. Refreshments await you in the summer bar, but you have to take care of the food yourself. A picnic basket and a blanket on the grass, or wooden benches and tables under the pergola. Enjoy yourself, watch and listen. Just don’t have any barbecues.

4. Because Kaštel Ečka was the resort of aristocrats

It was opened with great ceremony in 1820. The celebration lasted for three days. On the last evening, a grand ball was held, and a nine-year-old sat at the piano. The Wunderkind. Franz Liszt. Later a prolific composer. Also in attendance was the widely renowned Count Esterházy. Ever since then, it has long been the favourite haunt of avid hunters and nobles. The estate was purchased 50 years later by Count Felix Harnoncourt, who built an addition and changed the castle. Today’s appearance of the main house dates from the late XIX and early XX centuries, when the family was at its height.

We are welcomed by the armoured knight, in true size. Hunting trophies hang on the walls of the side hallway. We go out into the garden. It is spacious, landscaped, full of flowers and greenery. With a fountain and a kids’ playground.

Today, it is a cultural monument and a hotel. The former ballroom has been converted into a restaurant, which also spreads onto the magnificent terrace. The ambiance evokes the art of living of aristocracy, in the times long gone.

5. Because in Kaštel you eat like an emperor

We were trying to choose between fish specialties in the Sibila restaurant, right across the way from the entrance to Carska bara, and the Latin flavours in Etno selo Tiganjica, but the atmosphere of the castle enchanted us. So, why don’t we be nobles for a while. We choose the kaštel goulash with mushrooms, flavoured chicken with a gnocchi bake, and slow-roasted pork ribs, glazed with BBQ sauce. Every morsel is fit for an aristocrat’s palate. Chicken in Marsala wine and the famous turkey mlinci will have to wait for our next visit. We will be back, for sure. Before we say goodbye to one of the most beautiful castles in Serbia, we take a walk through the lavish garden. Nobles of the past would certainly do the same.

6. Because BS Zrenjanin provides royal service

After a day of royal time spent in nature, going back to the asphalt road can be difficult, and the last thing you need is to spend too much time at a gas station. That is why the NIS Petrol station near Zrenjanin is the best. You can fill your tank and pay for the gas without even getting out of your car. All you need is a very convenient app, Drive.Go, and after just two or three clicks, your stay at the gas station will be the briefest ever. Royal!

We are hundreds of miles apart. Not much similar, but related for centuries. The depth of interconnection between two nationalities is not easily discernible.  In addition to religion, culture, history, tribulations, wars, etc., a kind of a secret relation between Russian and Serbs has been developed. Some people consider it even mystical. Friendship may be as such too. Serbia has proven it after the October revolution, when a large number of Russians, particularly members of nobility and intellectual elite were leaving their homeland. Many of them fled to Serbia where they were accepted as near kins, unconditionally. The Russians needed a sanctuary and home, and Serbia, which had been demolished and devastated by wars, needed help. And it got it. As good as possible. Educated doctors, engineers, scientists, artists, etc. Many future Serbian intellectuals owe their knowledge mostly to Russian professors, and Belgrade owes eternal gratitude to Russian builders.

Why become acquainted with Russian heritage in Belgrade?

1. Because Krasnov built magnificent edifices

He was born in Podmoskovye. He graduated from Moscow School of Painting, Sculpture and Architecture. In 1922, Nikolay arrived in the capital of Serbia upon the invitation of the Union of Russian Engineers and Technicians of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes.

The most romantic church of Belgrade, Ružica in Kalemegdan Park, demolished in 1915 during the Austrian attack, was reconstructed according to Krasnov’s design. Two bronze sculptures made of war materials – a Serbian infantryman from WWI and the Balkan Wars, and a knight from the period of King Dušan’s reign are guarding the church. “Design by Nikola” is the way he signed his projects using the Serbian equivalent name. He realised his talent for the monumental and decorative through the Archive of Serbia, the first building constructed for this purpose in the Balkans, and the Yugoslav Drama Theatre building, which does not look now like former Menjaž. He provided today’s buildings of the Government of Serbia and the Ministry of Finance with his recognisable hallmark. He participated in decorating the Royal Palace and park in Dedinje. He did the interior decorating of the House of the National Assembly to the smallest detail. Monumental staircase, marble floor, luxurious dome. Representative diplomatic reception room, with silk wallpapers, white wood wall panelling and furniture to match. Expensive, classy, rich. Like the Russian Empire.

He was buried in the Russian section of the New Cemetery in Belgrade. A street in Vračar Municipality has been named after him. A monument has been built to him In Mali Tašmajdan Park. Many Krasnov’s works are now cultural monuments. The great Nikola(y) swept the traces of oriental over night, providing strong, elegant architecture to which is Belgrade proud of even today.

2. Because Samoylov brought the spirit of modernism

He was brought up in a wealthy, respectable Cossacks family. He fled from Crimea on the last ship and reached Belgrade, where he took up his studies. An artist with many talents. He is the creator of the first “glass” building in Belgrade, former Jugobanka at Kralja Petra Street, surrounded by older neighbouring beauties. He is also the creator of another impressive edifice with facade glass areas, the Faculty of Mechanical Engineering building, whose interior is particularly interesting due to the hall lighting. He also designed the Pension Fund building in Terazije Square, which he was adapting to the requirements of  Theatre-on-Terazije in the last year of his life and designed the acoustics and air conditioning of the room by himself. He decorated one of the most representative edifices in Belgrade, Moskva Hotel, with stained glass, inspired by Russian fairytales, and stone mosaics containing traces of Russia, Moscow and Serbia, his new homeland.

Grigoriy won the award of the City of Belgrade for one of many villas he designed in Senjak. He worked on the reconstruction of SANU building and SANU gallery. He completed around 180 projects over six decades. He was buried in the Russian necropolis at the New Cemetery in Belgrade.

3. Because Baumgarten made a home for Russians in Belgrade

Over Turkey, from Saint Petersburg to Belgrade, where he worked in the contemporary Royal Army. The magnificent edifice has adorned the capital’s Kraljice Natalije Street since 1933. He made it for the newly created Russian community in Belgrade. For gatherings, socialising, nurturing their tradition and culture. One of the largest and oldest spiritual Russian centres outside the fatherland. It has changed names. Now, this is the Russian Centre of Science and Culture in Belgrade. However, it is still the Russian House for everybody else. The place where people always like to go and whose door is always open. He also entrusted Belgrade with the headquarters of the General Staff of the Royal Yugoslav Army, which was declared the most beautiful building of the capital in 1937, and protected as cultural property later on. After WWII, Vasily moved to Argentina.

4. Because Stasevskiy is the creator of the Russian sanctity in Tašmajdan

He was born in Saint Petersburg, where he acquired the title of civil engineer. He was a colonel in the Russian army. Apparently small, but great Russian sanctity has found its place in the favourite park of the citizens of Belgrade, behind the St. Mark’s Church. The Church of the Holy Trinity. Built in 1924 according to the design of Stasevsky. Typical Russian sacral masonry, tucked in greenery. A lump of Russian land was placed in the foundation, the anti-Bolshevik leader, baron and general Pyotr Wrangel was buried in the crypt upon his own request, and a piece of a wool scarf of Tsesarevich Alexei Romanov is stored in the frame under glass.

Valery is also the creator of the first modern garage downtown, where cars of participants of the first Belgrade international motor and motorcycle race, held in 1939, were kept. Today, this is the Automobile Museum. Afterwards, he worked on his own and designed a lot of residential houses, settlements and mansions. He went bankrupt because of one private venture and lost reputation in his profession. He continued to create under other people’s names, hence it is considered that he left a lot more to Belgrade than evidenced by the preserved documents. After WWII, he moved to Morocco.

5. Because Vasilyev fitted a castle within a fortress

There is not much information on Aleksey. However, we know that he is responsible for the building of today’s Military Museum. He designed in the style of middle-age castles and perfectly fitted it in the historical ambience of the Belgrade Fortress. It has mostly preserved its original appearance so far. He showed up like a wizard, drew a castle with his magic wand and disappeared leaving no trace.

6. Because Verhovsky perpetuated Serbian heroes

He graduated from College of Arts of the Imperial Academy of Arts in Saint Petersburg, and moved to Serbia in 1920. Monument to the Defenders of Belgrade 1914-1918, the most significant form of gratitude to fighters of the Great War in Belgrade, was made upon Roman’s drafts. As regards dimensions, number of ornaments and expressive symbolism, it is one of the most splendid memorial facilities in Serbia. It presents the power of people. Of the Serbian soldier, winner, detached chains of slavery, and one white and one black eagle as the symbol of triumph of good over evil. Bones of 3,529 known and 1,074 unknown heroes are kept in the crypt of the Memorial Ossuary. According to the creator’s idea, the message of the monument is as follows: Let there be eternal glory to arms and the winning hero, to whose honour this monument was built. An extraordinary sculpture, hidden from the eyes of the citizens of Belgrade and visitors. It deserves much more conspicuous and visible location, in historical and art terms.

7. Because Kolesnikoff made the National theatre magical

The famous painter arrived in Serbia after WWI and was soon required to paint the ceiling of the auditorium in the National Theatre building in Belgrade. He chose baroque composition, rich in colours and classic antique topics glorifying theatre as the temple of art. The ceiling was damaged during the fascist bombing in 1941 and was completely removed during the post-war reconstruction, which made the artist very disappointed. However, during the last great works performed in 1986, the ceiling was reconstructed on the basis of preserved sketches. Unfortunately, Stepan Fedorovitch Kolesnikoff did not live enough to see the revival of his work.

He painted ceilings and walls of many buildings, and his paintings are today kept in the largest museums all over the world. He was buried with his compatriots at the New Cemetery in Belgrade.

8. Because learning Russian does not have to be rocket science

Cyrillic script, cases, tenses, many seemingly identical or only similar words represent a stage where well-known friends – Serbian and Russian languages have been playing for centuries. This dance of genetically related Slavic languages may be seducing. In the blink of an eye, they turn from Kozachok to Moravac, then to Russian Quadrille, and in the end to Kukunjes. They mix up the steps and in no time, a familiar sound of a word causes a surprise or laughter. An while your Russian dance partner is trying to explain “bukva”, you will think of a deciduous tree with a lush treetop.

To understand each of these dances and learn steps for dancing with the Russian language, the Centre of Russian Geographical Society and NIS prepared a Stident’s Book for learning Russian called “Ни пуха ни пера!”. NIS funded its entire development within NIS programme called “Knowledge Energy”. This book will show you the easiest way to acquire the Russian language at the beginner level through modern learning methods. A PDF version of the book and audio materials may be downloaded for free: https://www.nis.rs/ruski-jezik-udzbenik/

Start dancing confidently and slide into a harmonious dance of learning Russian!

“Ни пуха ни пера!”

We are certain that the Russian language knowledge will make exploring the Russian heritage even more fun. See you again in the new episodes dedicated to the Russian heritage in Serbia.

Where branches of the gigantic Carpathians meet the vast plain, the slopes of the Vršac mountains embrace the sun, and the sighs of unpicked grapes and the fragrant tastes of wine are aroused by the untamed Košava wind. Where sometimes the breath of the Serbian Sahara and the Deliblato sands come and go, a small town shrunk. It’s at the bottom of the hill. It’s friends with Romania. It hugs Banat.

Why visit Vršac?

1. Because Vršac is a city of wine and famous people 

It was first mentioned in the historical records in 1427 under the name Podvršan. The names of the city have changed slightly, but the summit has remained until today. It is also called Sterija’s town, after the father of Serbian dramatic literature, Jovan Sterija Popović. This is certainly justified, but perhaps a little unfair to other famous people from Vršac – painter Paja Jovanović, chess grandmaster Bora Kostić and poet Vasko Popa, who was born in the nearby village of Grebenac.

Vršac is best known for its vast and abundant vineyards, which bore fruit even in the time of the Dacians and Roman rule. It remained eternally faithful to the drink of the gods. Every September, it hosts the Vršac Grape Harvest Days, which locals have sympathetically christened Grožđebal (Grape Ball).

Today it lives in a wealth of different national communities, cultures, and religions. In peace and harmony. It managed, miraculously, to contain all sorts of tempers. The citizens of Vršac are friendly, relaxed, and smiling. One can see that they love their city. It is clean and tidy.
A lot of people could follow in their footsteps.

2. Because the city beauties enchant you at every step

At a time when culture and everything old-fashioned has been neglected, Vršac cherishes its heritage. Especially its architecture. There are no skyscrapers or fancy high buildings made of glass. Everything is harmonious and lovely. One could even say poetic. It is a pleasure to walk and look around. Among the most magnificent buildings are the Bishop’s Palace of the Banat Diocese from 1750, which after the renovation took on a neo-baroque and neo-Renaissance appearance, and the neo-Gothic Town Hall (Magistrate). Don’t miss the opportunity to climb the stairs to the pharmacy. The Baroque building where the first Vršac pharmacy At the Saviour’swas opened in 1784. It is one of the first pharmacies in Serbia. Locals claim that it was actually the sixth in Serbia.

Ethnic diversity has also contributed to its rich religious architecture. The cathedral of the Holy Father Nikolaj, from the second half of the 18th century, is the oldest Orthodox church in Vršac. The Roman Catholic church of St. Gerhard dating from the second half of the 19th century. An impressive neo-Gothic place of worship with towers touching the clouds. It undoubtedly dominates the city. Romanian Orthodox church, built at the beginning of the last century. Large and colorful, on the outside. We did not enter, nor did we enter the Catholic one. They are both closed. Whether we showed up at the wrong time or whether they only open their doors for special occasions, we were unable to find out. Too bad. The interior of both must be equally lavish.

On the main square is the building where Karađorđe was staying. On his return from Russia, in the early days of July 1817, he secretly stayed at the Stenger Inn. In a hurry, in the spirit of the eternal insurgent, he did not pay the bill with money but left two silver firelock guns. The inn is now history, but the building holds the memory of Karađorđe, his painting, and the name Two Guns.

3. Because the city museum is the heir to the works of the famous realist

It is housed in the Concordia building, with stylistic features of classicism. Founded in 1882. It owes a great debt of gratitude to a researcher, teacher, and publicist Felix Milleker, who made a significant contribution to the museum’s collection. The atmosphere is warm, non-sterile as in most buildings that guard cultural treasures. The social and cultural life of the city is presented in the Chronicles collection. Two rooms with the paintings of Paja Jovanović. The famous “Vršački triptych” and a life-size portrait of Aleksandar Karađorđević, painted a few years before the assassination in Marseille, and several other portraits of famous people, as well as an authentic color palette used by the world-renowned realist. Archaeological and ethnological collections are also on display, and weapons will soon be presented, too. The museum space in the Concordia building is not large, but the setting is very interesting and receptive.

4. Because Sterija wrote his works in it

It was raised by Sterija’s brother Đorđe in the second half of the 19th century on the foundations of the old one, in which Jovan was born. Authentic furniture, piano, and writing desk where he created “Pokondirena tikva”, “Zla žena”, “Kir Janja”, and “Laža i paralaža”. Some original manuscripts, photographs, and portrait of Sterija, by Uroš Predić, another master of realism, are also on display.

He was a great patriot and intellectual, a freedom-loving man. He is credited with founding the National Museum and the Serbian Learned Society, the forerunner of the Academy of Sciences and Arts. He lives through his imperishable literary works. Perhaps it is quite fair that Vršac is also called Sterija’s town.

You don’t just walk into Sterija’s house. The phone number of the person who will let you in is marked on the door. While you are waiting for the key bearer, don’t waste your time. The next-door neighbor is a wine cellar. Take a peek, it looks very wine-like.

5. Because the city park is a botanical garden

It was modeled after French and English parks, a mixed landscape. Numerous species of deciduous and evergreen trees, ornamental shrubs, and colorful flowers. Holiday benches, children’s playground, fountain, and an antique café with a large terrace. At the entrance there is a warning: “In case of increased wind, do not enter”. Eh, what do increased mean here where the wind always blows and whistles.

6. On Vršac petrol station you can pay with the IPS code

Vršac hides many wonders, from divine wine, through works of art, to modern wonders. For example, at NIS petrol station Vršac you can pay for fuel and other purchased items even if you forgot your wallet. It will be enough to use your bank application on your phone and select the “IPS show” option. Your phone will then generate a QR code that the cashier will read and withdraw directly from your account.

And a more practical and faster way to continue your tour of the remaining beauties of Vršac as soon as possible.

7. Because the best flyers are trained in Vršac

While we are curiously searching every nook and cranny, planes keep flying by. No worries. We know they are ours. Vršac is known for its Air Force Academy. It trains those of our excellent pilots who land the aircraft imperceptibly, like fluff. We didn’t ask for a ride above the city. Some other time.

8. Because there is a viewpoint on the mass hill

It can be reached by car or stairs from the city itself. It is nicely arranged with benches for socializing or solitude. On the plateau, there is the chapel of the Holy Cross, the oldest Catholic church in Banat, built in the 1720s. Nearby is the church of St. Theodore, the health trail, the extreme sports club, and a little higher than them, the Vršac castle. It is located halfway to Niška Banja, where we intend to spend the night and relax before we embark on new Niš experiences at dawn.

9. Because the Donjon tower once protected Vršac

You will easily reach the parking lot, and after a short walk, through the woods. You’ll enjoy it. No, it was not raised by Đurađ Branković, but by Hungarian kings, and not in the XV, but in the XIV century, our host guide, a historian, is persistent. He corroborates the claim by the fact that the former fortification was mentioned in the chronicles as early as 1323. It has a slightly younger twin in Čakovo, the birthplace of Dositej Obradović. The most preserved is the Donjon Tower, 20 meters high. It is often adorned with artistic settings. There should be a great view from here…but not quite. It is blocked by a giant television transmitter. It could be set on some other nearby hill.

10. Because the village of Gudurica is a wine paradise

It is about ten miles from the city. In the vineyards, of course. They call it Europe in miniature. There are 14 nations living there. There are many wineries. But like any comrade on the road, we choose the one just in its infancy, for our soul. Well, if it is good for the winery owner’s soul, it will be good for ours as well.

We sip homemade wine on a specially made set of barrels, surrounded by a grinder, press, and other wine tools. Hors d’oeuvre – sausages, smoked delicacies, homemade ajvar, pickles, and bread coated with fat and sprinkled with aleva pepper are also presented. The forgotten taste of childhood. The place is perfect for wine. Sunny slopes, land suitable for fruit and vines and wind roses. “The disease is going away,” said the owners who pride themselves on their healthy grapes that are much less sprayed than in other parts of the country. They are grateful for the winds. Before departure, we sweetened ourselves with strudel and cherry pie. The good hosts did their best. Great wine afternoon. If only the tambourines had played. Some other time.

On the way back, the sun sets in the distance, and the wind is just beginning to move little sleepy windmills. Large and numerous. “Vršac, a nice town,” Sterija called said. We couldn’t agree more. It was immortalized with a brush by the maestral Paja Jovanović, and Vasko, almost a native of Vršac, sang succinctly and in his own way:

In the hands of a winegrower

Stretched from the cloud

Golden cluster

In a single grain of corn towers

In the other a magical Hill

In the third mother plain…

Strange climate has taken hold. Winter without winter. It doesn’t snow when it should. But the good old Balkans are still holding on tight, with their high-altitude beauties which stay defiantly white for several months. Well, if winter will not come to us, we will come to winter. There, in a natural park in the far east of Serbia, amidst the snow magic.

Why visit Stara Planina?

1. Because with G-Drive diesel, we are game for anything

Fortunately, you can find NIS Petrol and Gazprom petrol stations on the most diverse roads of our beautiful Serbia, so even the most remote areas become more accessible. It is exactly what happened on our “expedition” to Stara Planina: even though quite far, we arrived there easily, with several well-positioned stations along the way where we recharged our energies, all of us – we with snacks and our car with superior G-Drive diesel. Frankly, folks, we were freezing, unlike our engine: it wasn’t -30 degrees but G-Drive can handle even that!

2. Because St. George monastery is soothing balm for your soul

A few kilometers from the road towards Stara planina, on the bank of the Temšice, in the forgotten nature of the village of Temska resides the monastery estate. Magnificent. Inside the estate, there are several lodgings and a church. It is believed that the Dejanović brothers built it at the end of the 14th century in the wake of the collapse of the Dušan’s empire on the foundations of a temple from the 11th century of the unknown benefactor. The church is dedicated to St. George. It was painted in the second half of the 16th century. The frescoes are quite well preserved and just a little faded. It has low door jambs so watch your head. The monastery is also known as Temska after a nearby old town of Temac. It is famous for its balms for skin diseases prepared according to recipes of Russian nuns who settled there in the 1920s. It is still a nunnery today.

The estate is also home to many domestic animals. There are chickens, peacocks, cats and a golden retriever who makes his presence known with a friendly bark looking for some tenderness. A real host! He is here to welcome and see off well-wishers.

3. Because along the way you will be knocked out by the queen of sausage

Peglana kobasica, or Ironed sausage. Pirot deaconry is widely known. The sausage is made of the highest quality goat meat, lamb and beef from the Stara planina region without veins and fat. Spices are mixed in to get a unique rich taste. Before serving, it must be dried and regularly “ironed”, thus it gets the shape of a horseshoe. In the rural household, right next to the road, you can also buy smoked barbecue sausage, smoked neck and smoked or dried meat. Everything is full of flavours and calories which you will definitely need in winter escapades.

4. Because Bigar is a work of art of water

The road further winds towards the village of Kalna. In addition to the enchanting nature, it is difficult not to notice houses. Many of them are dilapidated, decayed, deserted. Sad. Very sad. Our villages are dying out. Gloomy thoughts are interrupted by a refreshing view. Bigar waterfall. It is named after a light, perforated stone, a bigra, over which crystal clear water falls. Some call it the Water cat. Maybe because the waterfalls of Bukovski potok flow like a nimble cat over 35 meters high hollow rock before flowing into the Stanjanska river. A perfect place at about 450 meters above sea level to pause, listen to the murmur of water and take a break before climbing to the ski resort.

5. Because Stara planina is a family paradise

It is the second largest ski center in Serbia. Mild, more relaxed and cordial than its undisputed rival. With much more affordable prices. It offers winter sports fans about 13 kilometers of groomed trails and a children’s park with a conveyor belt. While youngsters master the first skills on the boards, under a watchful eye of experienced instructors, parents can rest in two nearby cafes, and those with a deeper pocket, in the Stara planina hotel.

Time has betrayed us. Thick fog. Dense like dough. It settled down without the slightest intention to lift. Not an unusual mountain day. But the most persistent fans of the trail are not deterred. The queue lined up in front of the gondola. The first in Serbia. It overtook Zlatibor. When mountain winds relentlessly howl and freeze, it is worth it all. It is also open for panoramic rides.

The little ones, out for a descent, huddle, slide, sled enjoying the snow. Red cheeks and leaking noses. Jabber frost, as they say.

After the evening walk, when the snow magically squeaks under your feet, you spend an evening playing a game, chatting with friends and family and then off to bed. No time to waste. We need to re-charge batteries for new snow adventures.

6. Because it offers adrenaline for skilled skiers

And snowboarders. Sunny valley and Konjarnik. The black and red trails are interconnected, which makes it a more challenging and demanding endeavor. At their “mouth”, the restaurant and rest place Plaža is located. And it is called that (eng. beach) for a reason. Whatever ray the sun offers, it is aimed right there, at a large terrace studded with deck chairs for winter sunbathing and a view of the highest peak, Midžor. Inside you can warm up by the fireplace, fortify yourself with beans, lamb cooked in an iron pan covered with ember, or just some homemade cheese and sausage. You are ready again to whirl in the snowdrifts.

7. Because mountain food is the law

Especially in Stara planina. It is all home-made. Locally. Inevitably, it starts with belmuž. Young white cheese is combined with white flour (bel), it requires constant mixing and a strong male hand so it is often prepared by a husband (muž). Miracles happened in ancient times! And so the belmuž was born, once pastoral food high enough in calories to last you the whole day. Today it is considered a specialty found on the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Serbia. We also order a plate of homemade cheese, soup and game stew. The host is a hunter. No mistake. Kafanče Ždrma. We don’t know how it got its name, but it is possible that the locals swallowed a “couple” of letters and in their own way combined eating and napping in one word known only to them. We let imagination run wild thinking of an unusual name. Lungs filled with fresh, sharp air, we are satisfied and ready for a repose. Deep and calm. Like mountains.

“Not far away from Rasina and Jastrebac, yonder high…” the capital and the vital centre rests. Long ago it was. The history remembers it. Our memory has always been fleeting only. Though unjustly cast aside, it was never reproachful.  It stands in adamant defence of its heritage. With minds and hearts of its citizens always looking southward, towards Serbia.

The great Serbian romantic poet was lucky to grow up and to spend his youth in the embrace of the wooded slopes of Fruška gora and the waters of the mighty Danube. We are, probably, late for growing up here, but not for acquainting with this place. It’s always a good time to socialise. Even when winter from the outskirts allows the frosty winds to stir up the waters of the beautiful blue river along the banks of the town of Branko Radičević.

1. Because Karlovci is a city museum

Prague is often mentioned as a city bearing this title. With a deep bow to the Czech capital, the jewel of Srem still has something to be proud of – wine, centuries-old education and spirituality. And the Danube as well. It bristled up, frowned, scowled. As if it wants to be alone. Only swans and fearless boatmen dared to touch it. What torment made him defy the waves of the raging giant? The banks are deserted, despite the coastal restaurants and cafes. It is completely different in spring, summer. It is immediately clear that we will return as soon as possible.

The core of the city is tiny, but special. It exudes elegance, the spirit of the former, true lordship. Without the admixture of newly composed architectural expressions. Stopped in some past, cultural times. And resists them. To the joy of its locals, but also visitors.

Among the magnificent architecture, the attention is attracted by a timeless but well-maintained house, now a cafe. It stands out with its oldest wrought iron door from the second half of the 19th century. Branko’s square is bordered by magnificent buildings – the Theological Seminary, the Magistrate, the Roman Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity, the Theological Seminary, and Stefaneum. And on a nearby hill, a building was built, with yellow-red facades to keep an eye on the town’s events

2. Because Karlovci bred the first Serbian grammar school

A bust greets us in an impeccably arranged garden. Branko writes. Enough to say “Branko”. It is well known which Branko. There is only one in Karlovci. We enter the lobby and read the history of the first Serbian high school. It was founded by metropolitan Stefan Stratimirović in 1791, and a year later it officially started working. The old building was demolished in 1890 and a new one was erected in the Serbian-Byzantine style with a richly decorated main entrance. Since the beginning of the 20th century, classes have been available to girls as well.

We pass through stained glass doors from which long corridors extend. Tiled floors, painted vaults, antique lamps and chandeliers, stone staircase with balustrade. It looks more like a palace than an educational institution. And the classrooms are somehow special. Each one brought to its purpose, woven of attention and love. Where we went to school, we sadly remembered our high school days.

We open a massive wooden door to the realm of books. Aristocratic. It smells of knowledge, poetry, and antiquity. The library consists of more than 18,000 titles, gifts from former students, professors, and benefactors. On the shelves are also the first photo type edition of Miroslav’s Gospel, a gift from king Aleksandar Obrenović, the first editions of Dositej Obradović, Vuk Karadžić, Branko Radičević…

Another room of special beauty. Ceremonial hall. All painted, in moderate tones, donors laid in the walls, velvet chairs. For concerts, performances, celebrations.

It had educated many great Serbian names, but she is widely known for Branko. In its benches, he composed the first rhymes. Today, it is a philological high school where modern and classical languages are studied. It is an honor to learn and teach in it. Its significance was perhaps best described by one of the former students and professors:

3. Because the Patriarchal palace was the home of the head of Serbian church

One of the most beautiful bishop’s palaces in Serbia. It was built at the end of the 19th century in the style of Italian palaces, on the site of the former Pasha’s residence, which was the first seat of the patriarch of the Serbian Orthodox Church after the transfer of the archbishopry from Peć, until 1920. Today it is the residence of the Bishop of Srem. The court chapel was personally painted by Uroš Predić.

The rich treasury inherits many valuables – icons, manuscripts, portraits of metropolitans and bishops, throne crosses, golden and silver bowls, goblets, and icons. The oldest book is “Cvetnik”, from the 15th century. Inside the court garden, there is a Patriarchal crypt and a wine cellar. Moreover, the priests make wine. And it is great. The courtyard is currently being renovated and is not shining in full splendor.

4. Because the temple of Saint Nicholas is the favorite church of the newlyweds

The legend says that whoever drinks water from the Fountain of four lions, on Branko Square, will return and get married in Karlovac. Many of them have. Right in the cathedral church of St. Nicholas.

It was built in the middle of the 18th century. At the end of the same century, it was destroyed in a fire, but it was quickly rebuilt at the beginning of the 19th century, when it received a Renaissance facade, which adorns it today. The magnificent iconostasis, the work of Teodor Kračun and Jakov Orfelin, stands out. He keeps two relics – parts of the relics of another Serbian archbishop, Saint Arsenij Sremec, and the miraculous icon of the most Holy mother of God of Bezdin, as well as paintings by Paja Jovanović.

5. Because the west and the east love in Karlovci

Dressed in a baroque cloak, the influences of Austria-Hungary and the Turks lash together, interwoven with threads of various artistic styles. United in a fairy-tale Karlovci story. Common and personal. The streets are narrow, bordered by residential houses, many dilapidated, and some decorated with lace curtains, craft shops, wineries and wine cellars. We imperceptibly reached an unusual attraction, the Match Museum, then the Museum of Beekeeping and the Peace Chapel, built on the site where the famous Peace of Karlovac was signed in 1699. Also nearby are Ilion Palace and Sremski Karlovci Inherent Collection. The city is trapped in its culture and history. With no intention of modernizing as it seems.

6. Because Karlovci are magical also from above

Before the hike to the Duško’s lookout, from where the the view embraces and hugs Karlovci, you should take a break and refresh yourself with a glass of Fruška gora wine. The lookout was built as a large open-air stage with two levels, on which there is a gilded cross and the sculpture of the poet Dusko Trifunovic, who rests in Karlovac. Relax on the steps next to the famous poet and enjoy the view.

7. Because Srem cuisine is a combination of Serbian and “Swabian”

Good food has always been eaten in Srem. Very often and too much. If you have not had your breakfast, do not worry, everything can be made up. On the menu, all kinds of delicacies – from homemade chicken soup, “rindfleisch” (beef), bacon, cracklings, to meat delicacies. We will not be hesitant. We start from appetizers, through beef stew to rolled chicken liver and seasonal salad. Do not leave the table without a glass of “bermet”, aromatic dessert wine, which goes well with Bundt cake, a German cake that has become domesticated and is prepared in several ways – with the addition of hazelnuts, almonds, raisins, walnuts…

8. Because the poet of Karlovci is resting on Stražilovo

Srem calories are hard to burn, but worth a try. A walk through the Palace Garden or towards the direction of the Fruška gora mount. The closest picnic area is Stražilovo. There is no lack of well-kept mountain trails through nature, for popular hiking. We breathe deeply and rush towards Branko’s height.