Kosovska Mitrovica is for many, the most sacred piece of Serbian land. It is certainly home to the most magnificent Orthodox temples.

After the administrative crossing, we drive along the shore of Gazivoda Lake. It reminds of Zlatarsko Lake. With its emerald tones Gazivoda Lake is tucked away in lush greenery. It exudes calmness.

KOSOVSKA MITROVICA IS AN ANCIENT CITY

Statues and altars from the II and the III centuries were found in the city area. The city was mentioned for the first time in medieval writings. The name Mitrovica originates from the XIV century after the church of Saint Demetrius of Thessaloniki, which King Milutin donated to his endowment, the monastery of Banjska. After the First Balkan War, it became part of the Kingdom of Serbia.

It is settled in the north of the Kosovo Basin, at an almost mountainous altitude, on the edge of the Dinaric Mountains, bordered by the slopes of Golija, Kopaonik and Rogozna. From afar, the northern part of Kosovska Mitrovica acts as a hill stronghold. It was as if someone was chasing and cornering it, so when it reached the hilly hinterland, it dug in and did not depart. There is nowhere else to go. The streets are still quite narrow today, mostly on a slope, the residential buildings are old, and many are with dilapidated facades while the buildings are mostly neglected. Understandably, there are many more pressing concerns.

On the main square there is the monument to Tzar Lazar, seven and a half meters high. He holds a sword in one hand and points to Gazimestan with the other. It was first shown on Vidovdan 2016. Next to it, there is the bust of the Russian diplomat and consul in Kosovska Mitrovica, Grigoriy Stepanovich Shcherbina, who said while he was dying that he was “the first victim in the new Serbian history for the liberation of Old Serbia”. He succumbed to a wound from a Turkish bullet in 1903. On the pedestal of the monument, the words of academician Vladimir Ćorović are inscribed: “A drop of fraternal Russian blood has flowed into the streams of Serbian blood, which have flowed through Kosovo for centuries (in Serbian: Kap bratske ruske krvi kanula je u potoke srpske krvi, koji stolećima Kosovom teku).” Further towards Ibar, a pedestrian street stretches under the Serbian Tricolours spread between the buildings. They are placed everywhere – on pillars, terraces, shop windows… There is quite a number of catering facilities on the promenade. Crowded. There are many young people and children. They ride bikes, run, and kick and throw a ball.

At the end of the promenade there is a sculpture Kosovo Peony (in Serbian: Kosovski božur), in memory of the Milić brothers, three heroes who gave their lives to defend their homeland. Nearby, on the very coast, there is a monument to those killed in recent war conflicts. At the top there is a picture of the White Angel. Apart from the memory of the victims, truth be told, there are not many preserved cultural and historical buildings. Some remained across the river. We also reach Ibar, and then the church of Saint Sava in the southern part of Mitrovica.

A VISIT TO THE CHURCH OF SAINT SAVA CAUSES STRONG FEELINGS

There is a guardhouse outside. We have announced our visit, so the policeman allows us to enter. Father Nenad welcomes us, visibly joyful. He does not have guests often. Religious people mostly come for the holidays. “There are more and more of them. Strangers also come sometimes“, says the Father with a beaming face, because everyone who sets foot in is worth as thousands of souls. He shows us the church port.

The construction of the temple began in 1896 and was not completed until 1921. It was built in Serbian-Byzantine style and made of stone. It had a magnificent gilded iconostasis. It was declared a cultural monument in 2000. Four years later, in the March Pogrom, it was burned and robbed. The church bell was removed. To date, it has not been set again. After the unfortunate events, it has been a landfill and a burning place for a long time, Father Nenad sadly recalls while showing us the bullet-riddled church bell tower clock. He brings us in to a church restored with great efforts. Narrow, oblong windows allow rays of light to shine through. Walls are white, unpainted, and instead of iconostasis there are arranged icons. These all are the gifts of individuals and other Orthodox temples in the country and abroad. There is still a lot of work to do, but the place of worship has come to life.

We leave with a heavy heart. The Father calls the children to say goodbye. Five boys come from the parish house, which has not yet been completely renovated. They politely and somewhat shyly wish us a good day. The Father drives them to school in North Mitrovica every day. They are the only Serbian family in the southern part of the city. Simply staying for the sake of future survival is sometimes the bravest act.

THERE ARE SPECIAL PLACES FOR BREAK EVERYWHERE

We return to the northern side. We need refreshments, and a break due to the long walk in addition to the impressions from the Church of Saint Sava. But not in a crowded cafe, we want to be alone for a while. We sit on a bench near the monument Kosovo Peony (in Serbian: Kosovski božur) which is symbolic. Everyone sips Jazak water lost in their thoughts. It is our faithful companion on all trips, so we took it to this special trip as well. We drink the last drops from the bottle and we are already strong and ready to continue walking. Miracles are made by the minerals of natural spring water.

THE MONUMENT TO MINERS CAN BE SEEN FROM AFAR

We climb up the hill through narrow streets and we reach the meadow where there is a children’s playground and an unfinished facility, probably for sports. A cross rises on the highest rock of the nearby hill. It seems golden under the rays of the Sun. It illuminates the surroundings. On the other side, there are the outlines of the remains of the medieval town of Zvečan on the top of the extinct volcanic cone. Stefan Dečanski died there.

Following the path through the conifer forest, we come to a monumental stone creation, about 20 meters high. It was erected in 1973 in honour of the deceased partisans of Albanian and Serbian nationality in the Second World War. A trough-like structure is placed on two conical pillars. According to one interpretation, the pillars represent the two peoples of Kosovo, and the trough represents their unity during the liberation struggle. According to the second interpretation, it represents a mining wagon. The bones of the deceased miners rest in the tomb.

A few steps further there is a viewpoint from which the view extends over the whole Mitrovica. The church of Saint Demetrius stands out, on the glade at the foot of the platform. The place has been carefully chosen, so that it can be seen from everywhere. It is a newer building, from the beginning of the XXI century. It was consecrated on Mitrovdan in 2005.

AT “SEJDA” THEY SERVE BALLTASTIC MEAT

Without second thoughts, we go to eat at “Sejda”. It has a tradition of almost sixty years. The host welcomes us unusually cordially. Everyone from Central Serbia is a special guest. They serve only meatballs. But not the ones well-known to us in tomato sauce, but grilled ones. They are taken piece by piece and served with hot buns and a salad of your choice. Something between a kebab and a burger, both in terms of size and composition. The taste, however, is different, juicier, tastier and unique. Well, dear people of Novi Pazar, you have strong competition. If by any chance we were appointed to the culinary jury, we would share the golden medal, like brothers. The host, who despite the great crowd pays attention to us, does not allow us to pay. “You came to the host’s house, to the hospitable city“, he says proudly. We disapprove, but in vain. He is persistent. We thank him from the bottom of our hearts. We leave our Mitrovica with mixed, deep feelings. The hospitable city, but above all the city of everyday heroes.

Šumadija’s calling. Truth be told, we have not visited it for a long time. Although the haiduks have already laid low, but only until St. George’s day, we are rushing to the area known by haiduks. To take pride in their great deeds, to discover cultural and historical sights, and to enjoy the nature. To the city that geographer and scientist Jovan Cvijić, described in a fairytale manner as “a white swan on the green lake” at the first encounter.

Why visit Rudnik and Gornji Milanovac

1. Because Rudnik is a natural and cultural treasure

It is the highest mountain of Šumadija. Cloaked in dense, mostly beech, forests entwined with clear streams and green glades, it guards over the heart of Serbia through its eight peaks above 1,000 meters of altitude. It is the node between the basins of the West and Great Morava Rivers and the Kolubara River. It is named after its wealth of lead and zinc ores (“ruda” in Serbian) that are still extracted today. Owing to its location and mineral wealth, it has been inhabited since ancient times.

It has always occupied a significant place throughout history. Not only did the invaders vie for Rudnik, but also Serbian lords contested for it. Thus, the first Serbian dinar was forged on Rudnik in the Cyrillic script. It was the dinar of King Dragutin. What is more, a peculiar wind rose blows on it, and due to that and a lot of sunshine throughout the year and high ionization of air, it was officially made a fresh air spa in 1922, as our host, a good connoisseur of the Rudnik region, tells us. And, then, it immediately became a place of fashion, and the lords of the city hastened to enjoy its blessings, he adds pawkily. Rambling along forest and health paths is a real pleasure because Rudnik harbours many natural beauties and traces of its turbulent past. The natural good of Veliki Šturac, which covers eight hectares between the summit of Javor and Cvijić’s peak, is under strict protection.

Walking to the village of Gardovi you will discover the remains of a Turkish town and fortress, and walking to Misa, the remains of an Islamic place of worship from the XIV century. Visiting the monument to Arsenije Loma honours the heroes of the Second Serbian Uprising. It is also worth seeing the Forest House, also known as Vila Danica and Herman’s Vila. The stone beauty hidden among the conifers was built in the 1930s by the contractor Von Herman, an Austrian born in Belgrade, who as one of 1300 corporals survived the retreat through Albania.

Among the peaks that must not be bypassed is Ostrvica, a rare relief phenomenon with steep cliffs. Due to its inaccessible terrain, it is a challenge even for experienced hikers. However, it is worth going up to 758 meters because it contains the remains of a fortified town that is assumed to date back to ancient times. It was rebuilt by Đurađ Branković in the XIV century for the defense against the Ottomans. It is believed that his wife died in it, so it was named “Jerina’s Town” after her. There are many stories about Jerina, and the names of the villages of Trudelj and Zagrađe are related to her. Ask the locals, they will be more than happy to talk about Jerina.

Wherever your feet take you or the wheels drive you, you’ll be grateful.

2. Because Prljuša is a shaft of a prehistoric mine

It is located at the peak of Mali Šturc, almost 1,000 meters above sea level. The best-explored shaft of a prehistoric mine so far has shown that miners once used rock mallets of various sizes. On its steep cliff, copper ore was mined – malachite. Several ceramic containers have also been found, and according to the findings, the shaft dates back to the fourth and third millennia B.C.

The remains of the former mine are still visible today, and traces of mineralization on the rocks as well as various coloured stones give the site a special charm. It’s also a viewpoint. The view overlooks the forest, which is hilly, green, and ravishing. It reaches all the way to Gruža Lake. Tread and observe carefully. And, if you’re lucky, you might find a piece of mountain crystal.

3. Because at Gornji Milanovac petrol station we enjoy top quality coffee

Exploring natural and cultural treasures requires a lot of energy. That is why we stop at Gornji Milanovac petrol station, with one of the many Drive Cafe restaurants throughout Serbia, and there we get invigorated with coffee made according to the recipe of old Italian masters.

Upon that, we move on, our senses sharpened and ready for all that awaits us in Gornji Milanovac.

4. Because Gornji Milanovac is the youngest town in Serbia

Or one of the youngest. And the young can often do what the elderly can’t. Thus, a small town in southwestern Šumadija managed to connect two conflicting Serbian ruler dynasties. Although its history is much longer, it was officially founded in 1853. Then, Prince Aleksandar Karađorđević gave the order to move the town of Brusnica near the Despotovica river after which it was named. But when he returned to power, Prince Miloš Obrenović decided in 1859 to rename it in honour of his half-brother Milan. As there was already one town of Milanovac on the Danube, this one at the foot of Rudnik was added the word Gornji (meaning “upper”), because it definitely is at a higher altitude. The young town was rapidly developing, especially in crafts and trade, and it soon became a respectable environment. Unfortunately, in World War II, it was bombed and burned in 1941. It managed, like many others, to rise above the suffering, and it was rebuilt. Nowadays, it is a charming little town with interesting and diverse content.

The town square is dominated by the former District Council building, known as the Old Court. It is the oldest court building in Serbia, whose construction began in the mid-19th century. It is more famous as the place where the unsubmissive duke Živojin Mišić, then commander of the First Army, issued an order for the Rudnik Offensive in November 1914 and led the heroes to the Kolubara Battle. After World War II, it was a prison, and today it’s home to the Cultural Centre and the library. In front of the entrance, the honorary place is occupied by the bust of Živojin, and beside him, on the lawn, there are marble statues of Aleksandar Karađorđevic and Milan Obrenović.

Across the street, you can see a beautifully landscaped city park and the church of the Holy Trinity, the last endowment of Prince Miloš who started its construction, but it was his son Mihailo who completed it. The church preserves the heritage of the town, old iconostasis and parts of the notable Takovo tree, under which the beginning of the Second Serbian Uprising was announced. Nearby is the Memorial Park Brdo Mira with a variety of trees and a large number of monuments. Inhabitants of Gornji Milanovac preserve the memory of all victims.

5. Because the Brković House is a legacy and a museum

The house of the wealthy merchant Ivan Brković has hosted the legacy of the Nastasijević family and the permanent exhibition of the Museum of the Rudnik and Takovo Region. Built in the late 1930s, it is a rare preserved example of interwar architecture. The legacy of a renowned family that left a striking mark on Serbian culture resembles a refined city house dating from the early 19th century. All members of the family were educated and artistic, and their home exudes culture.

Pictures and family portraits, personal items, books, manuscripts, a typewriter, a piano, a cello, a flute, a flute with a music stand, and high-class furniture testify to the life and works of the Nastasijević family. This precious legacy, the house where the family lived until 1920, was donated to Gornji Milanovac by the writer Slavomir Nastasijević in 1983. And thus he gave the Rudnik area and its visitors an extraordinary cultural and historical experience.

Pictures and family portraits, personal items, books, manuscripts, a typewriter, a piano, a cello, a flute, a flute with a music stand, and high-class furniture testify to the life and works of the Nastasijević family. This precious legacy, the house where the family lived until 1920, was donated to Gornji Milanovac by the writer Slavomir Nastasijević in 1983. And thus he gave the Rudnik area and its visitors an extraordinary cultural and historical experience.

In the loft, there is a permanent setting, archaeological and ethnological collection, which includes the period of the Obrenović family rule and the history of the city. The collection consists of objects from the Old Palace in Belgrade and the Takovo Castle that was burned in the fire. Among the most important exhibits is the seal of Prince Lazar, found in the area. The unique metal plate depicts a helmet decorated with buffalo horns, the trademark of the mythical ruler, thus proving that Lazar not only resided here but also issued charters. Admittedly, its replica is exhibited, because the original had to be sent to Belgrade, to the National Museum. The most intriguing item is certainly a piece of the curtain from the Old Palace, in which the bodies of King Aleksandar Obrenović and Draga Mašin were wrapped after their execution during the May Revolution in 1903. The great guide vividly reveals many unknowns about Queen Draga, who was born in Gornji Milanovac, but also about Queen Natalija Obrenović’s benevolence and help to Serbia. We have revised some knowledge of history, but also acquired new knowledge that is left out of the schoolbooks.

6. Because the Norwegian House is a memorial to the “Blood Road”

Its official name is the House of Serbian-Norwegian Friendship. The building is a blend of a wooden Viking drakkar ship and a Serbian wooden cabin. Although it is known to many only as a restaurant, there is a museum setting upstairs to commemorate the prisoners of 13 Nazi camps in Norway during World War II. Around 4,000 people were dispatched, almost all of them Serbs, including about 40 inhabitants of Gornji Milanovac and its surroundings. As part of forced labour, they built a road which was later called the Blood Road, and which is still used today, the curator reveals. There were 1,660 survivors, mostly thanks to the help of the local population, which supplied them with food, medicines, and warm clothes, and some even helped them escape. Thus, after the war, the survivors of the camp and their brave saviours, the Norwegian, decided to immortalize their friendship. All the material for the house, which was opened in 1987, was brought from Norway. The personal items of the prisoners are exhibited, and the history is presented in Serbian and Norwegian language. There are screens on which one can enter the name of the prisoners and find out about their life and fate, if it is known. Evil times make friendships, so the Bloody Road brought the two nations together. The Museum of the Rudnik and Takovo Region takes care of the house, and the visit needs to be announced to it.

7. Because Kota 555 is a high place for a gourmet

On the road Gornji Milanovac-Topola we stop for a snack. We assume that the figures in the restaurant name represent the altitude. We must be right because it is also a viewpoint overlooking the nearby valleys and looking at several peaks. Our exploration of Rudnik nooks and the mountain air starved us, and we gladly accept the “meat” recommendation of the lady owner. As portions are plentiful, we order half portions. Here come the ćevapi, pork neck, and beef under the lid, all in or on the traditional cream. In addition, she brings sauerkraut, paprika in cream, and homemade buns. We dig into it, and though we have done our best, we cannot finish our half rations. We are unanimously rating it with three straight As for exquisite food. And ten out of ten for service and kindness.

The gigantic flow of the Danube is tumultuously capricious. Serbia seems to have tamed it. The sprawling waterway quenched its thirsty plains and carved up the most wonderful gorge in Europe, and as soon as it entered Serbia, it wove through forests and meadows an endless network of backwaters and canals in one of the last refuges of the living world of floodplains. In that region, it forced the population to adapt to it, and so this watercourse cultivated resourceful and fruitful hosts, and gifted its fishermen with fish in abundance, and made the cooks skilled. We are rushing towards a natural rarity in the northwest of the homeland, via Sombor.

Why visit Upper Danube

1. The Upper Danube is Europe’s Amazon

More specifically, the area of ​​the large Bačko Podunavlje Biosphere Reserve, the Serbian part of the area called the European Amazon, which includes wetlands along the banks of the Mura, Drava and Danube rivers, which UNESCO declared the first five-state biosphere reserve in the world. The special nature reserve of the Upper Danube River is located in the extreme northwest of Serbia, on the triple border with Hungary and Croatia, along the left bank of the Danube, along almost 70 kilometres of the river course. It consists of two large heaths, Monoštorski and Apatinski, which together cover almost 20,000 hectares. It is characterized by heath forests interspersed with backwaters and canals, with river islands, meanders, ponds, swamps, wet meadows, reeds, and marshes. This unique river landscape has managed to preserve incredible biological diversity. It houses about 50 species of mammals, 250 species of birds, including the white-tailed eagle and the black stork, 50 species of fish, nine species of reptiles, numerous species of butterflies, and more than 1,000 plant species. It is the habitat of the largest European deer population in Serbia.

The centre of the reserve is the Eco-centre of Karapandža, next to the weekend resort of Kenđije. The yard is beautifully landscaped with a wooden gazebo and a covered outdoor classroom where various workshops dedicated to nature conservation are held. There is also a mini trail with information boards suitable for people with reduced mobility, where they can briefly get to know the richness of the reserve. For now, there are no catering establishments, so visitors have to bring their own water and other refreshments. There are fire pits for a kettle and a grill, so you can prepare your own food in nature. It will certainly be a day to remember.

We have not visited Amazonia, the one in South America, so any comparison would be inappropriate. But this one of ours completely enchanted us. The nature is wild and pristine, and the people are benevolent and forthcoming.

2. Roundelay envelops navigators in the Baja Canal

The catamaran sets sail at the pier in front of the Karapandža Eco-Center. It drives along the Baja Canal, which is one of the cleanest canal waters in Serbia. We enjoy nature from the boat. A completely different experience. The shores are overgrown with forest, reeds and heath vegetation. The coast is decorated with water lilies, among which fish hide. There are different kinds of them. Swans, ducks, herons keep us company. We reach the widest part of the canal, affectionately called Shira. It spanned over 120 meters, but it looks quite narrow, because the reed went deep into the water. An hour expired in blink of an eye. We disembark and greet the water jewel of the Sombor municipality. We didn’t take a dip into it, unfortunately. The current weather does not allow. But we’ll be back when it warms up, for sure.

3. Walking in the primeval forests along the Danube is unparalleled experience

The best way to get to know the area is by walking. If you are truly adventurous, there is a marked trail for independent wandering, about four kilometres long, with information boards, a rest area and an observation deck. You can also choose tours with a professional guide during which you will learn more about the reserve and its features, as well as about the process of restoring the ecosystem and the cultural and historical heritage of the region. You will definitely see a bat house in a tree, and maybe hear a deer roar or come across small turtles. Whichever walking tour you choose, listen to the trees, recognize animal tracks, observe carefully, breathe deeply, and simply enjoy.

The trails are suitable for all age groups and levels of physical fitness. Footwear should be comfortable and adapted to forest conditions, in other words, without any fashion. Of course, do not forget to take a break and drink some water – much needed during long walks. Our choice was the same as before – naturally good spring water Jazak.

4. The Periškić family honey is superb

Bački Monoštor, which you pass through on the way to the Karapandža Eco-Center, has a long tradition of beekeeping. We wanted to be a little smart, and since you have to eat honeydew to generate more brain cells, we stopped by the beekeeper Periškić. A wooden bear welcomes us in front of the gate. The hosts open wide the doors of the classroom where children gain knowledge about the most important creatures on earth and their healthy and medicinal products. We learn that there are more than 20,000 species of bees, and only seven honey bees. He tells us that in these regions the conditions are extremely favourable for bee breeding due to the abundance of watercourses, humidity and lush vegetation. The work is not easy at all, but the honey is delicious, so he does not complain. The host also takes us to an old type of beehive, affectionately called Monoštorka, as well as inhalation chambers, whose beehives have been painted by children, and which, he hopes, will be operational next year. Well, we learned something about wonderful values ​​and tasted honey, which according to analyses is almost flawless, the host boasts. You need to make an appointment to visit the household, but you can certainly stop by and buy a jar or two of honey, if the hosts are at home.

By the way, Bački Monoštor is a very interesting village where various delicacies are made and many old crafts are nurtured. You have to ask around a bit and make friends with the locals, and maybe they will show you their skills and take you to homes where they keep handicrafts and unusual personal collections from being forgotten.

5. The museum of the Battle of Batina is a memorial to intrepid fighters

The memorial museum of the Battle of Batina is located on the left bank of the Danube, near the town of Bezdan, at the initial positions of the great battle in the Second World War. Built in 1981, it preserves the memory of the fighters of the People’s Liberation Army of Yugoslavia and the Red Army who gave their lives in one of the largest joint military operations for the liberation of the country. It used to form a whole with the memorial room on Batina and the “Victory” monument that dominates the landscape, on the right bank of the Danube, today in Croatia.

At the very entrance to the building of an unusual shape, a digital board in several languages ​​adapted for blind and partially sighted people has been installed. A cordial curator guides us through a battle that many did not learn about in school, possibly because of the quarrel between Tito and Stalin. It took place between November 11 and 29, 1944, and was quite bloody. About 1,300 Red Army soldiers and about 900 partisans died, while about a thousand people went missing. About 1,500 women participated, as nurses but also real warriors, and among the fighters was the famous Sombor painter Sava Stojkov, says the curator. In the waters near the nearby bridge over the Danube, when the mighty river dries up, you can see the outlines of sunken Russian tanks, the curator reveals to us an interesting fact. In the central part, under the sculpture of a bird, there is a model of the battle, and on the walls there are panels with the names of the fallen and artistic representations of the battle. The showcases display uniforms, letters from fighters, patriotic songs written during the battle, decorations, black and white photographs, and several pieces of weapons used in the war. The museum owns many more weapons, but they are currently on loan for the purposes of filming, the curator justifies. We made up for the materials missed in the students’ desks in the Museum on our bank of the Danube.

Not far away is the ship lock, at the confluence of today’s Vrbas – Bezdan canal with the Danube. Built in 1856, it is the first building in Europe where underwater concreting was applied.

6. Indulge in fish cracklings at the Pikec czarda

Everyone gallivanting along the Danube, even in Bačka, invariably have lunch in a czarda. According to the recommendation, we go to Pikec, not far from the Museum. A garden on the very bank of the Danube with wooden tables and benches, crowded. Nevertheless, vibrant staff managed to find a seat for us. For the lack of time there was no menu, a waiter expertly recommends fried perch fillets and fish stew, salted as tasty. He brings a steaming meal in a big cauldron, accompanied by a platter of local pasta. They should be poured over while the juice from the stew is hot so that they soften. Tastes real, czarda-like. While we are enjoying ourselves and barely admiring it, a waiter rushes past us carrying something unusual and tempting on a wooden plate. On the way, he shouts that they are cracklings. We are curious, we say. It was not until the pile arrived with onion rings and tartar sauce that we realized they were fish. Truly, it would be a shame if they were pigs next to this much water. Moreover, potato salad hidden under the cracklings in lieu of bread. Those who know about this delicious dish, order it as an appetizer. Maybe we got the order wrong, but we enjoyed ourselves, and by God, we had a whale of a time eating all the delicacies served. Instead of cakes, cracklings and fish. Who still cares about the rules of dining in a czarda on the Danube!

Before we wave goodbye to the summer and ask it to return quickly, let us visit more natural jewels of our homeland. This time in the very heart of Šumadija. Where the girls are pretty as roses. The landscape the great poet Dobrica Erić described as “a piece of paradise, which God deliberately or intentionally dropped from heaven.” We are driving on the highway to Niš, via Kragujevac.

Why visit Gruža Lake

1. Because the Gruža Lake is the Šumadija Sea

It was created by damming one of the longest and water-richest rivers of Šumadija, the Gruža River, so it was named after it. It covers 900 hectares and is the fifth largest artificial lake in Serbia. The river bank, about 40 kilometres long, is quite rugged and usually accessible. It is rich in fish, especially carp, pike, catfish, golden carp, bream, perch, but may find some other specimens, too. There are fishermen all over the place. They take pleasure in casting fish hooks, chatting, and preparing food. Numerous birds keep them company. There are about 90 species of them, although the data is quite different. Even fans of rowing, kayaking as well as surfing enjoy it when the wind is favourable. As the average depth of the lake is about six meters, the water is pleasant for swimming. Along the river bank immersed in meadows and groves, several lanes and pathways are arranged for walking, cycling and jogging. Or you can just sit on a bench, enjoy the view, chat with your friends, or be alone and read.

As far as we can tell, there are no arranged public river beaches in the area. Some of the owners of the river bank houses have arranged an access to the river, but only from their houses. However, we have learned from the fishermen that from recently there is a place for splash in a river. La Terrasse, the original Šumadija name… but as the landlord lived in France, we accepted and forgave. Except for the name, he intertwined a bit of French charm into his piece of paradise just on the river bank towards the village of Žunje near Knić. A small restaurant, a cafe and a swimming pool with an amazing view on the lake. The way it was made gives the impression the pool water merges with that of the lake. Although the river beach under the terrace is arranged, swimming is prohibited. There are several pontoons all around. The first neighbour has had the gravel poured and a wide beach made, so you may jump into the river but at your own risk. This is where accommodation facilities are being built to a large extent. It seems that tourism is being rapidly developing in the Šumadija Sea. And it should, because the reasons are so many.

2. Because the church in Borač is a stone beauty

The official name is the Temple of St. Archangel Gabriel. The church property is very large and impeccably arranged. Flowers, trees, benches for rest and a drinking fountain for drop-by travellers to refresh themselves and fill their bottles for a walk through the forest. We climb up the small path to reach the small stone church. It has nestled at the bottom of Borač karst, sheltered by steep cliffs from three sides and by century-old linden trees from the fourth side. The churchyard has a number of stone slab graves. It was built in the Byzantine-Serbian style with only two small narrow windows. We enter through a beautiful wooden door. The interior hides a magnificent wooden iconostasis with a wooden cross above. Only remains of the frescoes to be poorly seen date back to the XVI century. The original church was built during the reign of the King Dragutin, by the end of the XIII century. It was restored by the Emperor Dušan, and later on by many other Serbian rulers. It has been ravaged by the Turks for the last time, and it was restored thanks to the efforts of the Knyaz Miloš in 1818. It has been under the protection of the state since 1971.

Between the church property and the country houses, an old cemetery in Borač is situated. There are several hundred tombstones in various shapes and sizes, mostly leaning on different sides, some of which are covered with moss. They are mostly narrow and elongated with a cap (“kapa”) on top, which is why they are called “kapačari”. Rich, diverse, vivid and rather strange patterns and prints. According to some data, the oldest date back to the XVI century, and according to other data, they were erected in the period from the First Serbian Uprising to the First World War. It must be that they have not been researched enough. The thing they have in common: they are made of stone from the Borač quarry and are the work of the local stonemasons.

The whole scene somewhat resembles the old Rajač cemetery near Negotin. As for the unusual ornamentation and shapes, as well as the overall impression – it is overgrown with grass and neglected. The Church of St. Archangel Gabriel and the cemetery are cultural assets of great importance.

3. Because Borač karst hides the remains of a medieval town

It is a rare terrain relief phenomenon. It is part of an extinct volcano that was formed about 20 million years ago, within the Rudnik’s massif. What sculptures nature has carved out of petrified lava! Today it keeps a watchful eye over the Gruža valley. The rocks are extremely solid and durable, of unusual colour and partly shiny, so the Borač stone is used as an ornament in building. It was declared a natural monument in 2019. The peaks can only be reached on foot, by a pathway through the forest. We walk slowly, breathe-in nature, and look for forest fruits. The highest peak is at 515 meters above sea level.

On a cliff just eight meters lower, there are the remains of the medieval town of Borač. The name is believed to have been derived from the verb “to fight” (“boriti se”), because it was often a target of long and dreadful battles. Although it was mentioned for the first time in 1389 in connection with the Hungarian incursion into Serbia, it is assumed that it existed much earlier, back in the reign of the Roman Empire that built the first fortress. It was then mentioned in the Despot Stefan’s Charter in 1405, and since then it has been recorded in documents as “the famous town of Borač”, so it is not surprising that the famous Venetian cartographer Fra Mauro put it on the world map. With the fall of the Serbian Despotate, it lost its strategic importance and then fell into disrepair.

The town was completely adapted to the configuration of the terrain. It had six towers and was divided into an upper and a lower town, and also served as a shelter for the population during enemy attacks. Today, only the remains of certain facilities may be seen, such as the tower of a circular base and a rectangular building that was a church. It was declared a cultural monument of great importance in 1983.

The visit give you the right feeling. Physical activity, lush nature and rich history in a single climb-up!

4. Because the Vranić house gave home to a famous Serbian intelligence officer

That is what the famous series My Cousin from the Village says. We saw a sign for the property where the series was filmed on the way to Borač karst. We decided to see if the TV series scenes were real. After several sharp turns on the dirt road, we reached a vast clearing on a hill. Behind the stone fence, in the spirit of Borač, the Serbian tricolour flag welcomes us. It is fluttering on the mast, up high. We are welcomed by cats, dogs and a rugged puppy who whines until it has been caressed and played with a little bit. Only now are we allowed to pass. We are looking for the host, the Colonel Milomir Vranić, but on the wooden old house stands the notice, saying he is at the teacher’s house. As the door is open, we go in. One room has it all. As in the old times. The central part of the room has a large table with a checkered tablecloth and a small village museum around it. A fireplace, two beds with woven bedspreads, rugs, folk art pieces, old furniture, black and white photographs, wall cuckoo clock, a spindle and a horsetail, old banknotes, and of course a corner with icons.

There are no scenes, everything is real. A courtyard with several facilities, an old well, lined barrels and flower pots, a mare and a colt, always friendly donkeys coming to cuddle. Time has stopped here. Only a playground for the kids has been added as something new, and a new facility is being built, probably a restaurant. We hope that its appearance will be integrated into the environment, not disturbing the true village idyll.

5. Because at Vranić’s, one dines like an officer

Since we are already in the country, it would be a pity not to have a bite. It must be homemade and just prepared. We sit in the great shade of a branched, huge walnut tree. And the menu is according to the village custom – there is not much to choose from. Only what a skilled cook prepared that day. Usually two or three dishes are offered. Today the cooked sauerkraut with corn bread (“projara”) is one the menu. Maybe a bit heavy food for a hot sunny day, but the boys smile in content. Eating the sauerkraut, not saying a word. They started speaking only after having eaten a half of the meal – it speaks seven languages, just like the Serbian intelligence officer in the series. However, the lady member of the team chooses a homemade dish – cheese, cream, “kulen”, prosciutto/ham, dry-cured pork neck and bacon containing just a bit of fat. Expected and delicious flavours from Šumadija. We are kept company all this time by puppies and kittens who lovingly hang around and patiently wait for some bites. We gave them many.

The taste of homemade food is complemented by the view that opens up to the cliffs of the Borač karst massif on one side, and to Gruža and Gruža Lake on the other side. Eh, the resourceful Colonel Vranić knew all sorts of things, even where to find peace for himself.

6. Because in the tavern “Ko to tamo peva” (“Who is Singing Over There”) you may rest with your eyes open

At the beginning of our trip, near the road to Knić, we spotted a tavern named after the cult movie Who is Singing Over There. The bus of Krstić and son was parked in the yard. We were going to stop for a coffee there on our way back. And we did so. Yet, we were there, but not the bus anymore. In disbelief, we hang around the wheel tracks in the ground. A chatty and cordial host comes to us and reveals that the small bus has gone for a drive of a small group of visitors around the area. “Yes, it is in roadworthy condition,” he replies to our astonished faces, and adds wittily: “But it only drives those with a marriage certificate.” Of course, everything here is in the spirit of the famous adventure with the company Krstić. He frankly admits that the bus is not a specimen from the movie, but it is almost from that time, from 1953. The “missing” bus then arrives. The cheerful people come out. We are peeking inside. Everything original, intact, unrepaired. But it is still on the road. It is indestructible. Just like the great Bata Stojković in the movie.

The characters from the cult movie are everywhere in the spacious flower garden with wooden tables and benches. The atmosphere is cosy and homely. The interior of the tavern is eclectic. A little bit of everything – folk art, old furniture, instruments and paintings, then foreign posters and records, and finally the jukebox. A lot to see and read. An unusual cosy place for full relaxation and refreshment.

After the Gruža adventure intertwined with the Serbian cinematography, we sit in our vehicle, certainly more comfortable than Krstić’s. Inspired by various impressions, we sang in unison: Zaaa Beograd (To Belgrade)! Vozi, Miško (Drive, Miško)

“One can hardly find a daybreak as beautiful as in Mokra Gora,” claims a landscape lover. Undoubtedly so, as the area comprising the Mount of Šargan and the village of Mokra Gora was declared a Nature Park in 2004. This beautiful place, which seems to be embraced by the Tara and Zlatibor mountains, is crisscrossed by the Beli and Crni Rzav rivers, their rapids and waterfalls. It is also blessed with healing waters, a diverse relief, which is overgrown with medicinal herbs and dense forest. The words of the local poet, Mihailo Ćupović, provoke curiosity and encourage us to explore these divine landscapes. One thing is clear even without any verification: Western Serbia is a realm of abundant scenic beauty and it never disappoints the visitors.

Why visit Mokra gora and Višegrad

Visit the village of Mokra Gora and the city of Višegrad. Reasons are aplenty. Here are the most significant ones:

1. Mećavnik is the art of living

This entire area was conceived by the celebrated film director Emir Kusturica during the filming of his “Life is a Miracle” movie. “As a fortress that defends itself from all the poisons of society. As confirmation that home can be found again”. He turned a dream into reality, creating the village of Drvengrad on the Mećavnik hill, between the Tara and Zlatibor mountains. This village is studded with wooden houses made of pine logs, from which Dinaric type log cabins were built. Those original houses were dismantled and fetched from the surrounding area and the Republika Srpska, and now they have been outfitted for a comfortable stay. This village has all the features and amenities of an urban settlement – the main square, catering facilities, a hotel, and a log church dedicated to Saint Sava. There is also a gallery, a bookstore, a cinema, and a folk crafts shop. There is even a prison. A symbolical one. Kusturica-style! From behind the bars of this prison, we spot the gaze of two men, whom you will definitely recognize. We didn’t find out if there were some other villains keeping them company, because we didn’t set foot in the dungeon. This village pays a due tribute to the personalities, whom its host considers great men and friends. The main street is named after Ivo Andrić, Serbia’s acclaimed Nobel Prize-winning writer. Visitors can also walk the alleys named after Nikola Tesla, Diego Maradona, Novak Djokovic, and great film and literary creators. The names of famous Serbs and foreigners, names and characters of famous written and film productions are highlighted everywhere.

Living here is in harmony with nature. Like a small farm, everything necessary for life is grown and produced. Fruits from the surrounding fields and orchards, and produce from greenhouses and stables are brought to the table, called the Serbian table in the household, similar to the abundance of the Swedish table, otherwise known as the smorgasbord, except that people sit at this Serbian table and eat organically. Culture defends itself against modern social scourges. It hosts the famous Kustendorf Film Festival, the Bolshoi Music Festival, the Autumn Theater Festival, the May Writers’ Festival, and various cultural events. National architecture and the natural environment have embraced certain achievements of the modern world, only for the comfort and needs of visitors. The visitors ready to indulge themselves also have a heliport at their disposal, just in case they require a quick arrival and an even faster departure. In the spirit of a healthy life, we offer a gym, a basketball pitch, tennis courts, and a swimming pool.

In winter, when the snow covers the mountain, just eight kilometers away from the Drvengrad, a narrow paved road uphill leads to the “Iver” ski resort on the eponymous top of the beautiful Tara Mountain. The church of St. John the Baptist is nearby as well. This most recently built structure, surrounded by a flower garden, amidst a forest, is on the left bank of the Kamešina River. There is also a healing water spring Bele Vode. Locals claim that it is unique in Serbia and very rare in the world. Nature and health abound in “the city that looks as if it has always been lived in, but never was”. That is how its creator describes this place, Emir Kusturica, who made his home right here.

2. The “Šarganska Osmica” railway loop is the route of the last narrow-gauge train in Europe, which was called “Ćira”

The famous “Ćira” provided a railway service from Belgrade to Dubrovnik via Sarajevo over thirty bridges and through countless tunnels and mountain gorges. It was between 1925 and 1974, when “Ćira” was driven into retirement. At the suggestion of a group of enthusiasts, the then state-owned Railway Administration in Belgrade revived one section of the unique railway in 2003, for tourist purposes. Today, a romantically entitled Nostalgia steam train again whistles its way through the slopes of the Šargan Mountain along the 760 millimeters-wide only narrow-gauge railway in Europe. The form of the loop gave the name to the entire enterprise: the “Šarganska Osmica” or the figure-eight-shaped railway loop of the Šargan Mountain. The train treads along more than 15 kilometers from the station in the Mokra Gora village to the Šargan Vitasi station and back, passing through 22 tunnels and over five bridges and overcoming altitude changes of 300 meters.

A diverse and colorful world. A spare ticket is always in demand, but there is no under the counter trade going on here. First come is first served is the principle here. The fastest ones eagerly board the carriages, each with a different arrangement of wooden benches and seats. Antique, but as good as new. Clean and tidy. Nostalgia has beeped and the romance begins. The public address system with a pleasant voice speaks to passengers in Serbian and English, revealing the most important information, and then the music starts, homey, recognizable. Sounds of trumpets, accordions and flutes. During the approximately 150-minute drive, the train rests at several stops. Every single one has its own unique features.

From the “Krst” lookout point, you might be able to see the famous figure eight-shaped railway track loop. Another stop features the so-called “Crazy Stone” where the first marriage proposals take place. No ticket was ever sold at the Jatare station, however it has a waterfall for refreshment, and the “Golubići” station was constructed just for the filming of the “Life is a Miracle” movie. You can see all sorts of unusual things here, in the style of Professor Emir. The landscapes along the way are surreal; the nature is breath-taking and wild. Old railway cars and locomotives are placed along the railway line as an open-air museum-historical space. Exciting, romantic and certainly nostalgic. A somewhat older passengers evoke their carefree childhood, recalling the famous song about the panting and the hot, chirping locomotive called ‘Iva’. They fulfilled their childhood dream of taking a ride on one of these. It seems that there are more foreigners than locals. News about good things travel far. The Japanese are especially conspicuous and nice, a group of young people, visibly excited and curious, frantically making selfies and snapshots, walking around in a hurry so as not to miss something in all that scurry hurry. Small wonder.  They arrived from a country boasting fast “bullet” trains, for them this is pure exoticism. Probably also for many people from the West. So, they, overwhelmed by the scenery, smile in the original environment of “Ćira”, which trundles along the slopes and curves. Although we are used to all kinds of circumstances, we share impressions. We are still deeply proud of our iron winding wonder.

The “Šargan Eight” is a great example of how antiquity can be torn from oblivion and transformed into history that lives and is admired. Once an architectural feat, today it is a masterpiece that provides an unforgettable and unique experience.

3.The tourist train offers a bun stuffed with gravy

We resisted the well-known Serbian custom of “grabbing a bite” on the train, with the sweetest snacks, and waited for disembarkation at the last stop, Mokra Gora. Straight from Nostalgia, we ran into another Osmica, now a restaurant. In the shade of the garden, located almost on the platform itself. Rumour has it that the best bun filled with roast mutton gravy is made right here. It is the pride of the entire area. Veal stew and pork medallions on cottage cheese are also arriving. Everything is perfect and we wholeheartedly recommend it, especially the bun with gravy! Juicy, full, strong flavours. It heals and recovers you at any time of the day. Maybe you should rest a little, but there is no time. The “beautiful old town of Višegrad” awaits. Armed with healthy calories we gained in the village of Mokra Gora, we are heading to the border, which is only thirty kilometres away.

4. History merges with nature in Višegrad

Geographically, it is at the confluence of the Rzav and the Drina rivers. The capricious and overwhelming Zelenika divided peoples and kingdoms. Everyone wanted to conquer it since time immemorial. Višegrad miraculously managed to spread across both its banks. A rare privilege. The oldest traces of life in this area come from the time of the Illyrians, around 1500 BC. It was first mentioned in historical sources at the turn of the 15th century when it belonged to the Serbian noble family of Pavlović, so it is assumed that the old town, standing above the present one, got its name Pavlovac or Pavlovine from this family. Due to its strategic position, it was often attacked by many nations, most prominent among them the Turks and the Austro-Hungarians.

Today, it is a lively, cheerful and, above all, hospitable town, which strongly exudes the spirit of the old times. She is inextricably linked to Ivo Andrić, our only Nobel laureate, so far! Although he was born near the town of Travnik, he grew up in Višegrad, where he attended the elementary school. Memories of the great man of the pen are everywhere. A monument to Ivo was erected just before entering the most famous bridge in the world. Modest, but adorned with floral arrangements. The memorial classroom of Ivo Andrić, where you can find out what kind of student he was, and the house where he spent his boyhood days, on the left bank of the Drina, which can only be seen from the outside, are on display. Walking through Višegrad’s alleys, you will get to know the Tsar’s and Gazanfer-bey mosques, the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and the monuments to Mehmed Pasha Sokolović and the fighters from the last war. The surroundings are equally rich, both nature-wise and historically. Nearby are Višegradska Spa, Dobrun Monastery, in the Rzava Gorge from the first half of the 14th century, and the Stari Brod Memorial Complex on the Drina. A poignant display in memory of more than 6,000 Serbs executed in 1942.

Wander through the stone alleys and listen to bazaar stories, treat yourself to kebabs and other sweets, take a ride on the Ćirko train carriage, sail the Drina by boat, climb the surrounding hills and explore. Surrender to the Višegrad spirit. And be sure to leave everything for the next time, because Višegrad must be revisited.

5.Bridge on the Drina was crowned with the Nobel Prize

Day slowly breaks over the Drina. The famous bridge is also awakens, for who knows how many times, being washed with cold water and reflected in the sparkling clarity of playful shades of green. How many times has Andrić witnessed this love dance of the sun, Zelenika and architectural achievement at dawn? Where did he sit, how many steps did he take with the white stone over its nine mighty pillars, did he ever swim the Drina and pass under one of the 11 arched openings? Questions swarm inexorably while we sip our morning coffee on the shore and swallow home-made snacks, unsurpassed. A sight that leaves no one indifferent. And it was Andrić, who took it to eternity. He received the Nobel Prize in 1961 for the novel “Bridge on the Drina”, but also for his overall literary work. The bridge or ćuprija, as the original title reads, is the main character of the epic story. It speaks about almost four centuries of history of this area and landmark developments that took place in it. And if it weren’t for the Drina, there would not have been any prize. This is why Ivo Andrić brought a record with the composition “March on the Drina” to the awarding ceremony of the world’s most-coveted prize. That is how the “ćuprija” and Drina were not only read, but also played in Sweden, and even further afield.

The bridge is officially called the Mehmed Pasha Sokolović Bridge. Born a Serb, Bajica was taken to the Ottoman Empire as a blood tribute in his youth. He has come a long way. To the position of grand vizier, closest the Sultan. They say that he never forgot his homeland. So around 1570, he commissioned the best architect of that time, the court architect and supreme builder of Constantinople, Mimar Sinan, to build a bridge over the Drina River. Therefore, a few years later, Višegrad got a magnificent structure, which in 2007 was inscribed on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List.

There is a white marble gate with an inscription in Arabic script in the middle of the bridge. We heard that the verses are about the builder and the year of construction. Whatever they say, they cannot surpass Ivo’s thoughts: “Life is an incomprehensible miracle, because it constantly crumbles and sheds, and yet it lasts and stands firm like the bridge on the Drina.”

6. Andrić-grad is an ode to history and Serbian great personalities

This town was designed by Emir Kusturica, who was inspired by the works of Ivo Andrić. On the peninsula between the Drina and Rzav, near the bridge. It was opened to visitors in July 2012, and the official ceremony was held two years later, on Saint Vitus Day, or Vidovdan. Also known as Kamengrad, it is a tourist, cultural and administrative centre of mixed architectural styles – Byzantine, Ottoman, Renaissance and Classicism. The Sokolović Brothers, Mehmed Pasha and Makarije welcome you at the entrance. In addition to the Nobel laureate, the squares and monuments also commemorate two giant personalities of Serbian history, Nikola Tesla and Petar II Petrović Njegoš, and a memorial to the writer Meša Selimović was recently discovered. Inside the walls are restaurants, galleries, bookstores, souvenir shops, shops, a church dedicated to Saint Lazarus and the Kosovo martyrs, and of course the “Dolly Bell” cinema, which is open to public again. It also houses the Andrić Institute, the City Administration and several other institutions. Since its opening, it has been constantly expanded, and the contents are supplemented.

An unusual place suitable for a family or romantic gathering, an evening out or just a tourist tour. A meticulous observer will also experience it as a history and culture lesson. As it is, new knowledge arouses imagination and new thoughts. The creator of the city dedicated to Ivo Andric knew this unequivocally when he designed it to “represent all the unfinished dreams of Andrić in one place.”

7. The Zlatibor refuelling station offers refreshments for both passengers and cars

An integral part of the journey home is refreshment that we can readily use as well as our car. The Drive Cafe at the Gazprom refuelling station in Zlatibor offers a “wind-down in 1000 flavours” and a hundred blends of coffee that will invigorate you for the journey back to wherever you came from. As you enjoy a delicious espresso, latte or cappuccino, an automatic car wash caters to your vehicle.

Please, always bear in mind: it is important to take regular breaks and refresh on the way back, especially during the travel season, as by taking care of ourselves and our cars, we are taking care of others.

Srem is widely known as flat and tame. True, but it is also colourful, a bit mischievous and always surprising. It has hidden all sorts of beauties, but it is particularly proud of its gem of exceptional natural values, inhabited by unusual animals. On our way to the main destination through the suburban settlements of Belgrade, we also explore some interesting places suitable if you want either to escape the city’s bustle or to go on a longer vacation.

Why visit Obedska Bara

1. Because the nautical village “Biser” is a gem on the Sava River

About 30 km from the capital, in the settlement of Boljevci, rests the first nautical village in Serbia, Biser. Along the left bank of the Sava River, there are 16 lined up raft-houses that resemble a coastal string of pearls. They are furnished with air-conditioning, a bathroom with shower tubs with massagers, a covered terrace and an upper terrace showing a beautiful view while you are enjoying the sun. In the vicinity, there is a boat-restaurant which,in addition to the specialties of Srem, offers fish dishes. Visitors can compete in beach volleyball and football, walk in the nearby dense forest, and ride a bike along a well-arranged path. There is also a small playground built for children. You can use city transport or your own vehicle to reach the nautical village, as well as boats which will sail and anchor in the port.

Not far away, in the village of Progar, there is the famous Tarzan beach. It was named after a long rope, a liana hanging from a tree, daring the bold ones to enthusiastically jump into the water. Therefore, do not be afraid if you hear a scream similar to the famous roar of the jungle king. The surroundings are also reminiscent of the “jungle” with lush greenery and flowers.

By the way, the bathing area is arranged, it has concreted banks with a pontoon, restaurant, swings, and seesaws for kids, and hammocks stretched between the trees for real relaxation in the style of the cartoon hero Goofy. The Sava River is too wide and strong here, so it requires caution.

2. Because the forest of Bojčin is a natural monument

From the river, we rush into a green oasis, an excursion site of diverse contents. The forest of Bojčin is located between the Sava River and the canals of the Jarčina River. Due to its peculiarities, it was declared a protected natural monument in 1965. It also has historical significance because during the two world wars it provided shelter for the locals and soldiers. Some of the dugouts and catacombs have been preserved to this day.

The forest, which expands over approximately 630 hectares, is dominated by a pedunculate oak, as well as by a hornbeam, linden, and poplar. It is rich in various plant species and mushrooms, so you may run into ramsons, and in the spring you may enjoy eating wild strawberries. There is quite a number of animals, and if you are lucky, you might come across a rabbit or a roebuck. In addition to roaming the woods, real recreationists can test their skills on 16 obstacles and devices set along a two-kilometer-long trim track.

At the entrance, there is a large manege of the Bojčin Equestrian Club where skilled riders show off, and a little further there is a small manege for beginners. This is where newcomers meet horses and learn to ride. Several log cabins have been set up around the area with the appropriate amenities for those who want to spend a few days in quiet and peaceful nature. After exciting walks and time spent with horses, you should refresh yourself in the restaurant Bojčinska koleba, which successfully preserves the spirit of old Srem. When you taste its dishes, especially those made of the Mangalica, time stops, the hosts say.

3. Because Obedska Bara is the oldest protected value of Europe

It was declared a protected area back in 1874, only two years after the Yellowstone in the USA was declared a national park. It has been known in Europe since the mid-19th century. The Austro-Hungarian rulers would go hunting there and give their ladies unusual, colourful feathers, which were then a must in fashion.

It was named after the nearby Obed monastery, known among the people as the Church of Mother Angelina (Branković). Originally, it was built from the material of a ship she sailed on happily, the legend says. Today it is a special nature reserve, which covers more than 9,800 hectares. It is one of the richest and most preserved habitats of the living world in the Pannonian Basin. It provides settlement for 226 species of birds, 50 species of mammals, 13 species of amphibians, 12 species of reptiles, and is the only habitat of glossy ibis in Serbia. Carp, pike, and crucian carp are enjoying the water, while wild boars, deer, and hedgehogs are walking around, and the black stork nestles in impassable oak forests.

The park is appropriately arranged for rest, with its wooden tables, benches, and fireplaces, where kettles are used and barbecues are made. The necessary wood is stored – cut and neatly stacked. You come here for a whole day of socializing, and relaxation. If you are still up for some action, you can rent a bike or paddle boat to cruise and go fishing on your own, walk the marked paths, or watch the birds. Be sure to climb the lookout to enjoy the view.

A visit to Obedska Bara is incomplete without a catamaran ride. The captain is friendly and eager to share with us some of the secrets of the swamp-forest space.

He lovably starts his story of the food chain, on whose top there is the main predator here, the white-tailed eagle, or rather its female. He also mentions a yellow-crowned night heron, which people call “danguba”, because it can stand in the same place for hours and not move. He presents us with plants and vegetation, angry with the algae that have grown in recent years due to low water levels. There is a continuous croaking sound in the background. It is a reedbird, a small orange bird. That is, he says, how they call one another, call out, quarrel, chat. We have not seen them, but we have seen some turtles. Not each of them manages to hide well. Along the way, the captain reveals the dangers of a nearby forest that hides the quicksand. He emphasizes that you can walk through that forest only on marked paths. He recalls how this terrible sand was indeed of great help to the Serbian army in the Great War.

Namely, after the Battle of Cer, the people who knew this region well managed to lead the Austro-Hungarian soldiers to the quicksand that swallowed up the entire enemy cavalry. A little heroic and wise history never hurts. As you cruise this strange realm, be quiet. Observe and listen carefully. Everything sings here.

4. Because the village of Kupinovo was a despotic neighborhood

Only in Srem, which carries this title, and at the same time the last Serbian despotic capital, the locals proudly say. This is evidenced by the remains of the fortress of Kupinik. Written sources mention it at the end of the XIV century. It was erected on a small island and was surrounded by a defensive trench and five towers. Its history is turbulent. The fortress was the residence of despot Stefan Lazarević, and later on of nobles of the Branković family. This is where Vuk Branković, also known as Zmaj Ognjeni Vuk, female despot Angelina, and the last Serbian despot Stefan Berislavić, lived. It was conquered and destroyed in 1521 during the march on Belgrade by Turkish Sultan Suleiman.

Archaeological research has only recently begun, so no one can imagine what can be found. Before going on a tour of the fortress, consult the TO staff of the Municipality of Pećinci. Young and cordial people will guide you in detail on all the secrets and traps of the medieval fortress. They welcome you to the ethno-park Kupinovo, the oldest preserved part of the village, where a traditional farmhouse and grassy and flower garden are presented. You will see old furniture and furnishings, a small wooden house without windows (“vajat”), a barn more than 200 years old, and a well. Be sure to climb up to the observation deck, from where the view of the fairytale, wild environment begins.

They thought of kids as well. A swimming pool with sand was built for archaeological games, and the brave ones can be photographed with the Dragon of Kupinik. How? That is what you will find out at the visit. A photo with a being with wings is certainly the most imaginative way to perpetuate the encounter with Kupinovo.

The oldest part of the ethno-park is the Church of Saint Luke, the most ancient Orthodox temple in Vojvodina, erected in the middle of the XV century. It is the endowment of despot Đurađ Branković, and the iconostasis was painted by the famous baroque artist Jakov Orfelin in the last decades of the XVIII century. In the surrounding villages, there are several more preserved buildings of folk architecture that are worth a visit.

Across from the ethno-park there is a restaurant with a terrace under good shade. We are also tempted by a song that is greatly sung, but we must move on, to arrive at another special place on time.

5. Because the Serbian museum of bread reveals the spirit of the people

Bread has always been more than food for the Serbs. Made up of a handful of wheat grains, it is a symbol of unity, and after being made by skilled hands, it is broken and divided, thus representing a common life. The Serbian museum of bread – Jeremija was founded in 1995 by the painter Slobodan Jeremić, out of love for his own heritage. In the area of 1200 square meters, about 2000 objects are exhibited, classified into three thematic collections: ethnographic, archaeological, and fine arts. They were collected during the painter’s travels around the country, during which he also researched and recorded customs. The setting shows the way of the wheat grains “from the earth, across the bread, to heaven”, revealing how the bread was once made, its significance and symbolism, but it also tells about people and their customs and a way of living.

Most of the exhibited objects can be touched, they are not under glass, because the controlled dust is an integral part of the museum, the founder explains. Some of them even start to work, and with the sound of a hand-held threshing machine, which is about 200 years old, cracking machine and millstone you can travel to the distant past. You can also see a bread baking oven, a hearth and a military kitchen.

The collection of ceremonial breads is particularly interesting, a rich testimony to spirituality and different customs. Family patron’s day, wedding, all soul’s day and harvest bread, cakes, Christmas ritual bread (“česnica”), Christmas figural bread laws (“zakončići”) are presented…

The walk further leads to the room where the host’s pieces of art are displayed. They are great. The founder also created a church, dedicated to Serbian fame, which he painted personally. On the wall in front of the chapel the rulers of the Nemanjić family are painted, inside on the dome are Serbian saints, and on the sides old Slavic goddesses and gods.

It was nominated for the 2017 European Museum of the Year Award. It is open for visitors on Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. It can be considered as another artwork of Jeremija. Magnificent and unique. As our mindful people would say, “He is as good as bread”.

6. Becuse on their way back, many people refresh themselves at PS Gazprom Krnješevci

After a day of strolling through Srem, our four-wheeler is running out of gas, and so are we. We are going to the PS Krnješevci on the Belgrade – Šid highway where we will all “recharge”. While the kind fuel attendant at the petrol station takes care of the vehicle, we quickly choose our food. Drive Cafe burger made of pure beef, with cheddar cheese, and lettuce well packed in a soft roll, with hot fries. And a freshly made sandwich with cream and roast meat to replace the missed flavours of Srem. It is working, almost completely.

Let us drink Jazak spring water of different tastes. Everyone has their own favorite. We end the adventure with a sweet bite. Strudel is gone, but cheesecake will do – with raspberry topping. A novice in an already rich offer of candies. Bingo. We could do another round, but you have to pay attention to your figure, summer is coming.

The weather is quite a bit unstable, but nature doesn’t really care. It keeps putting on its dazzling spring cape and calls out. We couldn’t wait. We are off to a quest for uninhibited beauty, to a neighborhood where premium cheeses and even better honey are made. The road leads us through the city of Požarevac.

Why visit Homolje

1. Because Homolje exudes natural beauty

We are arriving in Homolje. This eastern Serbian area is enclosed by mountain ranges from every side. The official mention of Homolje is linked to the 13^th century, when the whole region of Braničevo was ruled by Bulgarian nobles. In the olden days it served as a refuge being so hard to access. It boasts a lot of things, most notably the Homolje mountains, which are, in average, about 900 meters high. They are overgrown with oak and beech forests and covered with endless pastures and meadows, where you can still spot the so-called “katuns”. They are rich in diverse and medicinal herbs, forest fruits and are a habitat for many animals.

While hiking along well-kept and marked trails or conquering one of the mountain peaks, you might meet a deer, a rabbit, a fox, a wild boar, but also a wolf. Birds are watched here, there is hunting and fishing, and climbs are mastered by bicycle. Numerous caves give this place a special charm, the most famous of which are the Ceremošnja and Ravništarka caves. The famous ethno-village of the region is Trška. Many say it is one of the best in Serbia. We can’t confirm because we couldn’t find anyone. We were a day early. It is located on the road to the town Žagubica, marked with a turn sign showing to the gravel road.

The most important water way is the Mlava River, which cut the 16-kilometre long Gornjak gorge through the luxuriant, unbridled nature. It is because of the temples and remnants of the medieval town of Ždrelo that the locals call this gorge a holy valley. Many mystical stories and legends are told about Homolje. At some point in its course, the Mlava river flows silently. Locals call it “the silent water.” One legend says that a messenger brought news of the lost Kosovo battle. It was then that everything went speechless, including the Mlava river. The second legend is related to Emperor Lazar and the Gornjak Monastery. The locals will tell it to you when you get there.

It is not possible to visit, let alone explore Homolje in a day or two. One must come again and discover new nooks and crannies with great curiosity, over and over again.

2. Because the Gornjak Monastery was founded by Prince Lazar

Perhaps the greatest Serbian poet of romanticism Đura Jakšić described his encounter with the monastery in the heart of the Gorge with this verse – “The cross on it shines, responds to the sun, and draws golden stripes on the cold rock” in the poem “A Trip to Gornjak” (Put u Gornjak). It is located in picturesque landscapes, at the foot of the steep cliffs of the Ježevac mountain, on the left bank of the Mlava river. Once named Ždrelo, today it is called Gornjak. One oral tradition says that it was named after a medieval nearby town, another one suggests it was named after the so-called “gornjak”, the mountain wind. It was founded by Prince Lazar, who wanted to make a small offering to the Mother of God. It was built between 1379 and 1381 in the Moravian style. It shared the fate of his people. It was demolished, set on fire and ravaged countless times. All the valuables of the treasury are now gone, including the charter of Emperor Lazar, a cup with his initials, the golden chalice he donated to the monastery, and the banner of Emperor Dušan.

Of the medieval buildings, the main monastery church dedicated to the presentation of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Vavedenje), the chapel of St. Nicholas and the hermitage of Grigorije of Gornjak are preserved. A chapel dedicated to St. Elijah was built in the lodgings. There is a coffin with what is believed to be the miraculous relics of Grigorije of Gornjak. The main church is currently being rebuilt and no entry is allowed.

Across the road, on the right bank of the Mlava, there is a small hotel where you can have a snack and spend the night, and the surrounding forests can be roamed on footpaths. The parking lot features a map of the area with clearly marked sites and natural landmarks. Take a picture of it, it will come in handy for your further exploration.

Not far away, at the very entrance to the Gornjak gorge, the Blagoveštenje monastery (Annunciation to the Blessed Virgin Mary) is located. It is believed to have been built by despot Stefan Lazarević, in an almost vertical rock. Such an extraordinary sight. The road is marked and extended for the parking, however, the monastery is deserted.

3. The Krupajsko vrelo (Krupa spring) is the pearl of Homolje

At the foot of the Beljanica mountain, on the right bank of the Krupa river, secluded and forgotten by time, in the dense untainted vegetation lies the treasure of Homolje. Blue and green play with their brightest and tamest shades, painting a fairytale landscape. And the resonant sound of waterfalls cannot be overpowered. A sight for sore eyes and music for the soul. If only we had something to scoop water with and drink it. We might also get a tiny bit of gold with it. For, as the legend goes, the Homolje mountains swallowed a vast treasure chest hidden at the bottom of the Krupa spring in a golden cave, guarded by a water spirit, possibly a naughty one. We didn’t go looking in so deep, but someone did. The divers descended to 123 metres and discovered a network of canals leading to the cave. There must be some truth in every legend.

And while fantasizing about the enchanted treasure, refresh yourself in one of the two restaurants and be sure to treat yourself to some pond-grown trout. There is an unusual stone pool where you can freshen up in the summer. The Krupa spring (Krupajsko vrelo) is a natural monument. Clean and intact. It just seems like the surrounding area could use a little refinement. For starters, take care of the access road and plant grass in the dirt parking lot.

4. Because kids also enjoy the Ždrelo Spa

It is known for its thermal mineral water. With its spring at a depth of 180 meters and a temperature of 40 degrees at its surface. It is especially beneficial for gout. Nowadays it is a private hospitality and entertainment complex of the Terme Ždrelo. Visitors can relax in the spa, take a swim in four open and five indoor pools, and the kids simply love the outdoor and indoor water slides. Apart from the hotel guests, daily tickets are available to everyone else as well.

The hotel is built in the form of a castle, and the interior of the complex has intertwined Roman and ancient Greek styles; looks like everyone can find something for themselves. Stands with authentic products of the region, souvenirs and various trinkets, clothing stores, even a cow made of plastic, a barrel for lovers, a dragon fountain, because this is where they used to land. What this great place for rest and family gatherings has to offer won’t leave you indifferent.

It is located about ten kilometers from Petrovac on Mlava, along the road with pedestrian footpath with lighting and benches. Next to the complex there is a camper area, and private accommodation is also available. Take a ride around the neighborhood. You will be surprised by the large houses and even several castle-like buildings with priceless fences. Many are uninhabited. They seem to have been built for retirement days.

5. Because Homolje bites taste like a miracle

Since the sunset caught us at the Terme Ždrelo, the ethno-style restaurant seemed more than tempting. It was going to turn out to be just the right thing. All sorts of food. We opted for local tastes. For starters, the so-called “gypsy” homemade bread. Fiery, just as the name suggests. Mouths are burning, but it will be eaten in delight. Corn porridge with vegetable stew too. If we hadn’t tried those, we would have missed a lot. And a plate of Homolje cheeses. The names are cutely featured on post-its on a toothpick. “Urda” turned up in the middle of them. We were exchanging puzzled looks. The waiter explained that it’s cow’s lump cheese. They’re all top notch, but the trophy undoubtedly goes to the goat cheese, it’s second to none.

A Wallachian plate followed. Meat of all kinds, but a pljeskavica (burger) like we’ve never tasted, to be forgiven by skilled Southerners. There were still so many interesting things to try, but we were already way out of line. There will be time for that, because such a gourmet experience is worth coming a long way for. As we gloated with Homolje delicacies, we heard that the people of this region are the longest-lived in Serbia. Together with air and nature, food also helps. And our wise people have always said – you are what you eat.

6. Because top quality Drive Cafe coffee is waiting for you at NIS Petrol in Požarevac

The prerequisite of every excellent trip is vigilance, so on our way back, we looked for a break at NIS Petrol gas station in Požarevac, where they serve all kinds of top-quality Italian coffee.

We had the largest-size cappuccino to spice up our journey with the aroma of quality coffee. We ended this journey with sips of our favorite drink.

Nature is greatly awakened and playful. Sunshine brings out the big smiles and warms the body. And where to pamper the soul and cheer up the heart quickly, if not in the south. We’re rushing into the city of “sevdah” and enjoyment. Where the old still resists the modern. Where girls are beautiful, and boys are skillful in singing and dancing. By taking the highway to North Macedonia, we arrive at the birthplace of Bora Stanković, in the far south of the homeland.

Why visit Vranje

1. Because Vranje is the town of Bora Stanković

It is settled in the valley of the South Morava, in a basin between three mountains. There are no reliable data when the first settlement was created, but given its important geographical location, it must have been quite some time ago. The first written clue about Vranje dates from the 11th century, and it is included in the Serbian state under Stefan Prvovenčani two centuries later. During the turbulent history, the Bulgarians and Germans tortured it until the final liberation at the end of World War II.

Walking through Vranje is extremely interesting, varied and exciting. At the beginning of the main promenade, a map of the city was made as a floor mosaic. There is also a fountain which is currently being renovated. A sunny and warm spring day has drawn out all sorts of people. Ah, what a crowd of men, as people from Vranje would say in a funny way. They’re keeping their special dialect jealously. And that’s the right thing to do. The pedestrian road is long, lively, with many catering businesses and various shops. Parallel to it, there is a part of it that extends to the so-called street of fun. Eh, that’s where you have to sip some coffee. A bunch of cafes and restaurants, youth chatting cheerfully, home atmosphere, almost intimate. A narrow alley leads out to the famous Burberry Building. An ordinary residential building with an unusual facade in the patterns and colours of the luxury fashion house. Although the motive of the owner or builder to make it like that is unknown, it is certainly an interesting thing that is talked about. Many more likable buildings are hidden in Vranje, walk and you will discover them, and you will surely reach the old hammam.

A break from the hustle and bustle is offered by a large and beautifully landscaped city park. It is obligatory to visit the White Bridge over the Vranjska River, on the edge of the city. Freshly restored, it seems, unscathed by letters and drawings. It is also called the Bridge of Love, according to the tragic love of two young people. A rich Turkish girl had a crush on a Serbian shepherd, and she died protecting her sweetheart from her own father. And then he took his own life. And so there was a bridge, says the legend. It has a board with printouts in Arabic and Turkish. Unfortunately, we do not speak any of the two languages. Whatever it says, the bridge has always been a symbol of the merger, and a message can be hinted at. One thing is certain for sure – love must not be meddled in. On the shore there is a small wooden church of St. Petka, also known as the Crucifix Mosque, with a long and unusual history, and not far away, on the other shore, rises the monastery of the Holy Father Nikolay.

Quite a clean, temperamental and cordial city reflecting an old-fashioned spirit from every of its corners. It is clear why it inspired the work of Bora Stanković and stole the soul and heart of Serbian Pavarotti, Stanisa Stošić, who made the melody of Vranje famous far away. We have not heard of Lela, Jelena, but the trumpeters have cheered us up in the morning. It has always been hot and cheerful in the Serbian South. To keep it that way.

The city that has a soul is the motto that welcomed us at the entrance to Vranje. There is one, very much so, very much so. It stole a piece of ours, but it gave us much more of its.

2. Because the National Museum Vranje is a pleasure for history lovers

It is located in Pasha’s konak, built in the middle of the XVIII century, on the promenade. The plateau in front of the former selamluk, where only men used to stay – is ruled by the kids now. They run carelessly, ride bikes and skateboards, laugh and shout cheerfully. In front of the entrance is a monument to Staniša Stošić. The museum has an ethnological collection. In the chambers on the ground floor are exhibited pieces of jewellery and urban and rural clothes of this region. There would also be a few pieces of clothing that could still be worn proudly nowadays. And jewellery, varied and unusual, eternally fashionable. Ladies will enjoy it for sure. Upstairs are the dining room, the lounge, the bedroom and the girls’ room. They fairly faithfully portray old Vranje. The nearby haremluk, once inhabited only by women, is being restored and will house an archaeological collection. We are eagerly awaiting the opening.

3. Because Koštana and Sofka live in Bora’s house

Vranje is inextricably linked to its own Bora Stanković, one of the greatest writers of Serbian realism, who devoted his entire literary work to his homeland. He wrote his works in Vranje’s dialect despite abundancy of criticism. Thus he immortalized it in his Impure blood, Koštana, To Tašana… Nowadays, these works of heritage are kept in Bora’s birth house in Baba Zlatina Street, a narrow cobbled alley. It was named after Bora’s grandmother Zlata, who raised him after he lost his parents early on. We pass through a large old gate and enter a spacious courtyard. Floral and gentle. Under the thick shade of a hundred-year-old mulberry tree, which, as custom had it, was planted by Grandma Zlata before she started building her home. In the courtyard there is also a vine, a well and a low table with three tripods, a carpet over the porch fence. Just like it used to be when Bora was growing up here. And the interior was originally furnished. The guest room is decorated mostly in oriental style and Grandma Zlata’s room with an iron bed and a wooden loom on which she wove. Across is Bora’s room. His literary editions, manuscripts, photographs from theatre plays and films, and personal items are on display. One can stay here for hours.

From the courtyard you can see Pribojčić’s house, another building of Oriental-Balkan style. Nearby is the birth house of the priest St. Justin Popović.

4. Because these parts were once ruled by Prince Marko

A few kilometers from the town, on the road that connects Vranjska with Leskovačka kotlina valley, there are the remains of a medieval fortress, on a protruding ridge between the mountains of Pljačkovica and Krstilovica. It is assumed that the town was built by Emperor Justinian I in the 6th century, and that today’s remains of fortifications date back to the 13th century. According to folk tradition, the fortified town was once ruled by Marko Kraljević, so it was named after a hero.

There is no landscaped parking. There is only one extension on the road where only a few vehicles can be packed. We have come across a garbage dump, scattered all over the place. A sight that would deter even the most determined tourist. However, we continue on the dirt track for several hundred meters in such an environment. Further more it’s clear. It seems that there will be a few who find the strength to turn a blind eye and make it to the fort learning a lesson on the way, and leave no cigarette butts behind. On the ascent to the ridge, a path of stone can be noticed. Be sure to walk carefully uphill, especially downhill. As expected, the fortress is abandoned. In the shrubs and vegetation. Without any markings, so one can only speculate on what the builders were building. Between the slopes of the hill there is a view towards the town, while under the steep cliff the water murmurs. Nature has offered a great experience, just to give it a little bit of help by men. Marko’s fortress is one of the oldest cultural heritage of the Vranje region and a cultural asset of great importance. How it would look if it were something of lesser importance. Sadness and shame.

On the way back to Vranje there is a separation for hill Pržar. We’re making a detour in hopes of improving our impression. It did. A wooded, landscaped picnic area where you can enjoy a refreshing walk. Another beautiful view of Vranje.

5. Because the Vranjska Spa has the hottest water in Europe

The healing water was used back in ancient times. Members of both Serbian royal lineages were also treated there. One of the kings is still present today at a mural on a rock over the river Banjštica. It is 12 kilometers away from Vranje, at an altitude of about 400 meters. It boasts the hottest, namely the hottest mineral water on the Old Lady’s soil. Temperature’s 96 degrees. It is extremely unusual to see water running from the faucet at the center of the spa and that it evaporates. Boiler’s gone, of course. It is beneficial primarily for bones ache. A sweet place for healing and recovery, but also for pleasant moments of rest. The old buildings need to be restored and refurbished. A new luxury hotel is being built in the rock, and the spa could soon become attractive even for gentlemen with “a deeper pocket”.

6. Because the Mišić Zoo houses dangerous animals

Children no longer have to go to the capital to see the wild beasts live. And there are quite a few – tigers, kangaroos, monkeys, lemurs, zebra, camel, flamingos, ibis, cranes, alpacas, llamas… In total there are about 2,000 representatives of 250 species. The owner is constantly increasing the crowd – a couple of lions have already arrived, and seals are expected soon. Homes of residents originating from exotic areas have air conditioning and underfloor heating, and there is no winter for them. Kids can hang out with their dogs and horses and attend the riding school. The Mišić Zoo, which covers about eight hectares of private property, is located in the village of Dulan, about ten kilometres from Vranje. You can come on a full-day family trip, but also spend a few days in a newly built hotel within the complex. Hedonism is guaranteed at the indoor pool with sauna and salt room. For kids a huge joy, for the Vranje region a great tourist offer.

7. Because the restaurant Mišić hides the specialties of southern Serbia

After an exciting company with dear creatures, it is time to dine in the pleasant restaurant Mišić.It is always open for us to taste the specials of the region, order the veal tail under the sač. Bingo. The meat is chopped into small pieces, juicy and spicy in the manner of Vranje, fiery. Here come the beans on “tavče” – Macedonians to be ashamed of, the burger – the Nišlije to envy, and the hot cake that must have been made by a skilled housewife. And of course, the inevitable Moravian salad, a bowl for everyone not to struggle over it. The offer is rich – from roasting, through a variety of grilled meat, pastes and pizzas, to fresh water and sea fish. Let’s believe that everything is delicious, but the ponytail is top of the line. Warm recommendation. Wow, what a Southern ending to Vranje adventure. If only we had managed during the day to enjoy in the sun on the terrace of the restaurant. There ‘ll be a chance, because we’ll be back for sure when the little lions and seals move into the zoo.

8. Because at NIS Petrol you can pay for fuel from the car

After the “Vranje safari”, the time comes for saying good bye. At PS NIS Petrol Vranje-grad, we poured fuel with the Drive.Go application. We came, the hospitable Vranjanac filled our fuel, and we scanned the QR code and paid through the app. No waiting, from your seat, quick and easy. We also took advantage of self-service car washing – it also deserves some rest after this adventure. Refreshed and full of impressions, we are heading back home – so that the impressions and the calf’s tail under the sač settle in our experiences as well as in our stomachs.

When the winter comes and the north wind starts to breeze, one should stick to the south. Think those who don’t know anything about the tiny village that has cleverly dealt with the plain winds and great snowfalls. Where it is most lively right in the winter. We had the audacity to pay it a visit. Along the way, we intend to explore the area and drop by to a place of famous landowners and of a proud name. From the highway to Subotica, we turn to Srbobran.

Why visit Srbobran and Turija

1. Because Srbobran is a lovely town with a rich history

For a long time, it was called Szenttamas, or a similar version of the name St. Thomas. According to Hungarian written sources, Srbogradski or Srbograd (“Serb Town”) was added to the name in the middle of the XVIII century. After the Great War and the annexation of Vojvodina to Serbia it was named Srbobran after the fortress-ditch which was built at the present-day Srbobranska Street during the Revolution of 1848. As Serbs were in those ditches, it was symbolically called Serbian, and some time later – Srbobran (“Serb Defense”). Today, no landmarks, no mention of the famous ditch.

Srbobran is embraced by many waters – the Krivaja River, the Great Bačka Canal and several ponds, and they have endowed exceptional fertility to the land. It is rich in thermal waters, which are not used for medicinal purposes, but still has its source of health, the Yellow Well (“Žuti bunar”). At the center, under the sweet roof, there is a continuous flow of water. Yellow, rich in iodine. Don’t be discouraged by the color, or the smell, it’s not very pleasant, but one gets accustomed after a few sips. It’s worth squeezing your teeth for health’s sake.

The fertile land once gave birth to the landowners. The most famous is the Dunđerski family, which the locals also remember for their benevolence. Even today, one can see the magnificent buildings of once the richest prečan family. In the local Orthodox cemetery here is the Dunđerski Chapel, built by Lazar, the father of Lenka, probably the most famous member of the family thanks to the pen of the great romantic Laza Kostić. At the entrance to the cemetery is the Mausoleum of Stevan Dunđerski. It is reminiscent of the domes of medieval Serbian monasteries. Its construction cost 200 wagons of wheat. Golden wheat ears is still worth gold today. We didn’t set foot inside. It is under renovation. The cemetery is also unusual because of the large number of ossuaries, family tombs, which resemble smaller mausoleums. Not that the cemetery can be considered a suitable tourist destination, but sometimes it can tell a lot about the locals and their lives.

Srbobran streets also carry royal spirit, for once the king walked there. Admittedly, then officially heir to the throne, Alexander I Karađorđević. He was hosted by Stevan Dunđerski in his lavish lounge in 1919. He was driven there by a beautiful carriage. Unfortunately, our host did not have a carriage and two black horses to lend to us to trot around the alleys and have a royal experience of the posh houses of vivid colours. We had to walk, but we enjoyed it just as much.

The fertile land, hard-working hosts and fighting past make the locals proud, as our host proudly tells us. It’s a delight to listen to him. How much love is woven into the descriptions of every corner of his home. For him, it is certainly special and the most beautiful. Honestly, it’s worth a visit. So instead of going to the roadside tavern, stop by Srbobran and take a couple of hours to explore the exciting surroundings. There will be no lack of beautiful surprises.

2. Because two Christian churches live together in Srbobran

History, especially in mixed and smaller places, is often also reflected in religious buildings. While different churches and religions survive, there is respect and coexistence. That’s exactly the kind of environment Srbobran looks like.

Already as one approaches the town, two giant towers are visible. They symbolically represent the Serbian people on both sides of the Sava and the Danube, and the monumental nave of the church represents their unification and strength. The bells, they say, can be heard for up to 25 kilometers around. The Orthodox Church of the Epiphany of the Lord was founded in 1787 and was under construction for about twenty years. It would suffer in any armed conflict, and there were some in this area. The bells would then be silenced and melted into cannons. But the locals were more tenacious than the cannonballs, so they would always rebuild it.

It is considered one of the most beautiful Orthodox places of worship in the Pannonian region and a protected cultural monument. But the door is closed. Very unusual for an Orthodox temple in Serbia. In front of the church is a landscaped park, a favorite meeting place for young people, and a Monument to fallen combatants and victims of fascist terror.

At the other end of the town is the Roman Catholic Church of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross. The first place of worship at today’s place was built in 1783 without tower and without cross. As the population, and thus the number of believers, grew, in 1815 a real place of worship was built with a high tower and a cross. And it, like the Orthodox Church, also suffered during the Revolution of 1848. It was renovated about twenty years later, and today’s appearance takes shape at the beginning of the last century. A large building that dominates, as we assume, the Hungarian part of Srbobran. We went in there. A splendidly painted vault, colorful stained glass and various figurines. The winding narrow staircase leads us up to the balcony from where the interior shines with full glow. From there breaks the sound of organ.

3. Because the Turija sausage holds the Guinness record

It all started in the winter of 1985. It was quite snowy, say the townspeople. When there is nothing to do in the field, the people go into their houses, firewood burning, drinking hot brandy, and chatting. And what else would hunters and hosts discuss than about who is a better sausage maker? And so teasing began. Volunteers for the evaluation gathered in no time and the competition began, in a smaller circle. But already the following year, distinguished hosts applied, news spread around the area, crowds gathered, and the competition became serious. Finally, to see what they ended up with, some money remained in the piggy bank, and the Sausage festival of Kobasicijada got a humanitarian mark. Thus, one of the most famous and significant events in Serbia emerged from winter leisure and local teasing customs.

On the last weekend in February, the tiny Turija becomes the centre of Serbia. The crowd comes from everywhere, and there can be one or two foreigners, too. Everyone assembled to see the Guinness wonder live. It was entered in the Book of Records in 2013, and since then, every year, Turijans have set a new one. They haven’t had any competitors for a long time. One cannot go down the main street. Crowds squeeze among the booths that offer everything, just like on any other fair. The most interesting are certainly meat booths with marvelous delicacies. The stage is set in the center of the village. The cultural and artistic program runs from Friday. Folklore ensembles alternate, kids in folk costumes also perform kolo dance, and presenters recount the events from previous Sausage festivals. Saturday at noon, Her Majesty arrives. She is driven by a tractor, which honks tirelessly trying to dispel the curious crowd. When he finally manages to make it to the stage, the sausage is sliced like a red ribbon and the merry celebration can begin, officially. The Sausage festival is something to experience, at least once in a lifetime. An exciting and uncommon event, especially for city kids.

4. Because Beljanska pond is a nature park

It is located between Srbobran and Turija. The Beljanska pond represents a significantly preserved wet area. It is habitat to numerous rare species of plants and animals, and the spawning grounds of several indigenous fish species. It has adopted about 130 species of birds, and there are some amphibians and reptiles, too. There are insects, understandably, in abundance. It is an ideal place for passionate nature lovers and photography aficionados and a paradise for anglers. A well-maintained health trail, four kilometers long, is an opportunity to stretch your legs. And when you get tired and hungry, there is a well-tended barbecue area nearby.

5. Because Salaš Tatić is a family oasis

Not far from the Beljan pond, there is Salaš Tatić. It stretched across the orchards and vineyards, all the way to the shores of the Great Bačka Canal. There is a pontoon made for sunbathing and summer swimming. Kids can run carefree on the spacious lawn, try their skills on the outdoor playground props, and mingle with sheep, lambs, and a pony. An angler is easy to become here, you just have to throw the hook, and for romantic souls, you are provided with a boat ride. Something for each sense. Of course, when the snow starts melting and the sun warms this tame plain of Bačka.

6. Because Tatić’s goulash is seasoned with bećarac

A salašar story is not complete without a home-cooked snack. A brick-and-wood restaurant, decorated with ethnic details and a few pieces of antique furniture and utensils, blends in perfectly with the surroundings. Although it is not yet dark, the atmosphere inside is already boiling. The joyful partying of a middle-aged group has already been there for quite a while. We would like to try a lot of things, but on the weekends, the choice is narrowed. The house offers sausages. Even though our trunk is packed with those from Turija, we don’t mind. The second choice is beef goulash with noodles. They are skilfully curled at the bottom of the bowl, which gives them a special juiciness. All is perfect. We expected nothing less. The deprivation of a few more salaš delicacies has been compensated by general cheerfulness. The band is tireless, they can play all kinds of things. And then the real treat begins – bećarac. Several great ladies sing and keep outwitting with experienced musicians. And no one to take a break, let alone give up. They accompanied us with humour. While there is good-host food and song, there’s no winter.

7. Because PS Novi Sad 16 has a wide range of products

After the bećarac, on the way back, we sought refreshment at the Gazprom station on the way out of Novi Sad. Juicy and fresh donuts have further lifted our spirits, and a wide range of waters, juices and energy drinks have provided us with much-needed refreshments for the journey back. As we add up the impressions and take away the calories on the way to Belgrade, we think about everything we experienced in Srbobran, a place that was a historical “dam” from the great empire. And we are thinking about what Serbia would look like today if it were not for the brave Srbobran folks.

We go to the west of the homeland, where nature has created wondrous landscapes, history has written heroic feats, and minds have shaped the future. To the beautiful Drina, the bumper and the clamp, ever since. In the homeland of folk speech and Serbian language and script nowadays. Loznica can be reached from Belgrade via Šabac and Sremska Mitrovica. Whether you want the route via Little Paris or the former Sirmium, it is your will.

Why visit Loznica and Tršić?

1. Because Loznica is home to two great men

The Loznica region was inhabited around 4,500 B.C., the Illyrians had left it a rich material culture, and during the Romans it was part of the province of Dalmatia. The town is believed to be named after vines that have been cultivated since the third century. It is was mentioned for the first time in the writings of King Milutin’s charter on the occasion of the construction of the nearby monastery Tronoša in 1317. It was annexed to the Principality of Serbia at the time of Miloš Obrenović thus becoming a free peasant property.

The birthplace of Jovan Cvijić, a scientist and founder of Serbian geography, and Miodrag Mića Popović, a famous painter and academician. Loznica erected a monument to Cvijić and dedicated a park and the main street to him. Popović donated about forty paintings and graphics to his homeland that are the heritage of the Gallery of Mića Popović. The works are often on tour through Serbia, and the possibility of seeing them depends on luck. We have not been lucky this time.

What stands among the city’s beauties are Vukov dom kulture (cultural centre), unusual appearance and decorative facades of bright color, the Jadra Museum, the Anta Bogićević elementary school, on the elevation of the former rebellious fortress, and the nearby Church of the Shroud of the Most Holy Virgin, erected in the second half of the XIX century on the site of the older building.

A small, but lively, hospitable and clean town, where two dialects, like the two shores of the Drina, compete together.

2. Because the Jadar river Museum preserves the Drina monoxyl

Monoxyl, an old vessel used to transport people and goods carved from a single piece of oak wood, was found on the coast of the Drina in 2011. The tip was sticking out of the ground, and it was spotted, who else, but by fishermen. It is seven meters long and weighs more than a ton and is considered an extremely rare example of this type of water transport estimated to be several centuries old. The river giant is worthy of a special place and adorns the museum’s little courtyard. True, you’d have a hard time getting it under the roof. But the rest of the exhibition about the Jadar region is worth seeing. It starts from prehistory and covers the period up to the middle of the last century. Particularly interesting objects were found at the nearby bronze site of Paulje, where a common tomb was excavated, and a model of the necropolis was shown. We relive the rebellious and warrior days of this region through a trench model, which played an important role in the Loznica Battle, also known as the Battle of Tičar, as well as the stories of the local duke from the first Serbian uprising, Ante Bogić, as well as of Momčilo Gavrić, the youngest participant in the Great War. After his entire family was killed by the enemy, an eight-year-old kid turned into a soldier. Later, he was taking part in breaking through the Thessaloniki Front. The ethnological collection contains interesting tools and pieces of furniture, and something to learn about Cvijić.

The museum is housed in an appealing building of an old pharmacy built at the beginning of the 20th century.

3. Because Tršić is the cradle of nowadays alphabet

Just a few kilometers from Loznica is Trsić, the birthplace of Vuk Stefanović Karadžić. Collector of folk intellectual creations and songs, linguist, reformer of the Serbian language, and writer of the first Serbian dictionary and grammar called Pismenica in the language of the common people. A lot of valuable things were left to us by Vuk, but the most precious thing is the priceless alphabet. Phonetic, perfect. Unique alphabet in the world. But, it seems that we’re not perfect enough to nurture it, so by being conceited, we hushed it up.

Vuk’s homeland today is part of the Region of Exceptional Characteristics Cultural Region Tršić-Tronoša. At the very entrance is the elementary school “Vuk Stefanović Karadžić” and the plea of young people that the cradle of Serbian literacy should not be tainted. It seems to have been respected.

The Museum of Language and Alphabet represents important people from the Vuk’s era and shows the origin of Cyrillic. Vuk’s Alphabet Cases, 30 boxes resembling birdhouses for each letter of the Serbian alphabet, are placed around the Museum. On the boxes, a QR code is put through which visitors can get acquainted with the words from Vuk’s Dictionary that speak about folk customs, beliefs and traditions. If you have a folk word, write it on a piece of paper and throw it in the box. You will contribute to the preservation and enrichment of the language and thus become a real Vuk’s follower. That’s a great idea.

Vuk’s Home is accessible on foot. By the way, on the wooden boards, we read the engraved inscriptions of honor, justice and humanity. We pass by a meeting place with the wooden Church of St. Archangel Michael, and restored mills and houses with an antique look. Several hosts have returned from abroad and revived their old homes, as our host proudly tells us. At the top of the hill, across the Žeravija river, the founder of nowadays alphabet was born. At the entrance to the courtyard, we are greeted by the words of Vuk: “I was born and raised in Serbia and therefore it seems to me that there is no country in the world that is more beautiful than Serbia, nor a place more beautiful than Tršić.” We enter a humble cottage, a log cabin, on a stone basement. Not the original. According to Vuk’s records, the Turks burned it almost ten times during the rule of Karađorđe. But at the end of the 19th century, the locals marked the place of the original home with a cross placed in the bedroom of the Memorial House, erected in 1933. At that time, the first Vuk’s congregation was also held. In the courtyard are two wooden houses called “vajat”, a cottage for barrels and a barn.

The homeland holds the memory of the Vuk with dignity. Pure, green, natural, buildings in wood and stone, and knowledge lures from everywhere. It just needs to be absorbed.

Nearby is the famous Tronoša Monastery where Vuk stayed for a short time, got a little education, and kept the herds. Take a stroll through the stunning surroundings, climb to the spring of the Žeravija, enjoy the preserved nature and the chirping of birds, memorize the creations, and renew the alphabet. If nowhere else in Serbia, it still rules here.

4. Because Koviljača is a royal banja

It is located not far from the Drina, at the foot of the forested mountain Gučevo. It is believed that people here have been treated since ancient times, and written sources mention medicinal waters in the first half of the 19th century. It is sometimes known as Smrdan Banja or Smrdan Bara for the sulfuric scents of beneficial mud. It was renamed in the early 19th century. According to one of many legends, it was named in honor of the wealthy Koviljka who built the city there.

Today it is one of the most healing, but certainly the most beautiful health resorts in Serbia. The jewel of the beauty of Podrinje (the Drina region) is a lavishly landscaped park with more than 80 types of trees, flower arrangements, grassy areas, and a large fountain. It covers about 40 hectares and is one of the largest artificial oases of greenery in Serbia. In addition to the landscaped nature, the Kur-salon, built under the patronage of King Alexander I Karađorđević and modelled after the Viennese one, is also prey to beauty. In addition to the cure session (treatment), from the beginning he was also chosen for the entertainment of the gentlemen of aristocratic origin. Thus the spa from the derisive name of Smrdan (stinking) to the illustrious nickname of Royalty. The other one’s worth it today. Coffee shop on the spacious, sunny terrace of the Kur-salon overlooking the beautiful park with the sounds of the classical music. A few royal minutes you have to afford.

5. Because Gučevo is a heroic mountain

A wooded mountain that covers Banja Koviljača and waters it with mineral water from its sources. They take turns hornbeam, oak, beech, maple, and black pine, so one can breathe to the fullest. It is home to rabbits, foxes, various birds, roe deer, and there are some wolves. Favourite is the picnic area and destination of pedestrians, hikers, cyclists, bikers, adrenalin-run paragliders. The ride to the top is fairy-tale, but the road is not wide enough, so be cautious, especially on many curves.

It enrolled in the history of Serbia after the first trench battle in the First World War. The Battle of Gučevo, fought during the Battle on the Drina in 1914, lasted 55 days and is known among the people as the Battle above Clouds. In memory of the fallen, a pyramid-shaped memorial was erected, 15 meters high with a two-headed eagle spreading its wings at the top. The remains of some 4,000 Serb and Austro-Hungarian soldiers were buried. The famous thought of Njegoš is written above the sarcophagus: “Blessed is one who lives ethernaly, he was worth being born.” From there, the eyes embrace a piece of the homeland around the Drina. Yeah, the heroes were motivated what to die for.

6. Because Ethno village “Sunny River” is an oasis of relaxation

A few kilometers to the south, between the mountains of Gučevo and Majevica, the Ethnic village “Sunčana reka” (Sunny River) developed. Rather big, covering seven hectares, it provides a variety of facilities for rest and recreation – horseback riding, carriage and boat rides, tennis courts, football, basketball, and beach volleyball, a cheerful courtyard for the youngest, an outdoor exercise area, and the possibility of renting quads for exploring the surroundings. A special charm is given to the landscaped beach, where three famous domestic series were recorded. On the shore of an emerald beauty. Always cold, unpredictable, enchanting. There are also several restaurants and bars to eat and drink. The accommodation is divided into settlements made in the spirit of old times, each with its own peculiarities. One bears the name of the famous Hollywood actor Robert de Niro, who was enchanted by the Drina had so much, that he named his adopted daughter after her, according to many sources. The cottages are made of wood, bricks and stone, and five of them are just like the cottages they used to be, pile dwellings. Some hints of history never hurt, and the museum exhibition – the Drina through time – has been staged, but it is currently closed for renovation. Vacations in the old-fashioned way, home cooking, socializing with animals, and mirroring in clear waters of the Drina.

7. Because the Serbian tavern serves Argentine kebabs

There, you don’t have to cross the Atlantic into the land of Maradona to taste their kebabs, it is enough to cross the road to the Serbian Lodge in Loznica. The courtyard is cute, ethnic style, and the interior is small but pleasant. Apart from the “Argentine”, which we acknowledge is excellent, the offer is typical for a taverna. We order sausages, top-notch, homemade, and a burger on kaymak, which fills the plate. It would feed two persons with good appetite. But size can’t replace taste. It should be juicier and softer. Prices are decent, service quick and kind. Certainly recommended, especially for hungry women, just stick to sausages and kebabs made with the “God’s hand of football”.

8. Because at PS Loznica you can pay for fuel without getting out of the car

After exotic tastes from the land of Maradona and the tango, it is time to dance back to Belgrade. And since the dance of love and death always takes two, we also have to water our four-wheeler. There is not enough fuel until the petrol station Loznica. We do not feel like moving with our fully fed stomachs, so we apply our favorite and very practical Drive.Go app. We pay for the fuel from the warm vehicle, comfortably and quickly. Now that we are all fed up and satisfied, we start engines for collecting impressions of experiences from the always ravishing western Serbia.