South of Belgrade, Serbia stirs into hills. Waves of green roll out in every direction, sculpted by time and silence. From them rise mountain beauties, many shy and lesser known, tucked away like secrets in the folds of the earth.
We set off to visit one of the most wooded among them, a highland jewel crowned with stars.
BECAUSE THE HAWK IS A WOODED OASIS OF PEACE
The Jastrebac Mountain is parted from the mighty Kopaonik, by Janko Gorge, carved by the river Blatašnica.
The massif of Jastrebac, stretching near the ancient Serbian capital of Kruševac, is split into Great and Small one. Its highest peak reaches nearly 1,500 meters above sea level. Folktale tells that it was named after a hawk who built its nest on the bare mountain summit. From the twigs it carried its beak, seeds of beech, birch and pine scattered across the barren slopes. And so, over time, tall trees began to rise. Some call it the Mountain of Dragons, for once, the people remember, Serbian knight of the Order of Dragon used to make their camp here.
Today, it is one of the most forested mountains in this part of Europe. ”Jastrebac has no equal in Serbia when it comes to its vigilant inaccessibility and the richness of its diverse forests and thickets, which cover its slopes so densely”, that is how the Serbian doctor and botanist, Josif Pančić wrote about this mountain of hawks. (‘jastreb’ in Serbian means ‘hawk’). And the hawk — a bird of prey — has long symbolized freedom, height, and strength among the Serbian people. Jastrebac is cloaked in dense coniferous and deciduous forests, primarily beech.
Yet, its emblem is the white birch. Bathed in sunlight nearly all year round, refreshed by clean mountain air and unpolluted surroundings, it thrives with a rich variety of plant life, including many wild edible herbs and fruits. Hiking trails to many of its peaks lead through untamed nature, past countless springs and mountain creeks.
The landscapes of Jastreba attract all nature lovers – hikers, scouts, herbalists, as well as mountain bikers and families with young children. The most popular picnic spot is Ravnište, home to the Jastrebac Lake Resort. The area offers a wide range of activities: sport courts, an outdoor gym, mini-golf, a playground for little ones, and for adrenaline enthusiasts, there is an adventure park, zip-line and artificial climbing wall, as well as motocross and mountain biking trails. At the centre lies an artificial lake, surrounded by a beach, mostly used for sunbathing. In the summer, some might dare to take a dip, although the water is quite cold and there are no lifeguards, so swimming is at your own risk. A wooden board bears the inscription: “Wherever you go, no matter the weather, always bring your own sunshine”. And regardless of what or how much you bring with you, you will take away even more from this mountain that Pančić used to call “a blessing of the adjacent region”.
BECAUSE RIBARSKA BANJA OFFERS A ROYAL TREATMENT
Nestled on the slopes of the Great Jastrebac Mountain, surrounded by forest and greenery, Ribarska Banja (Ribarska spa) is a true natural gem. It was named after the fishermen who used to catch premium trout in its springs – the trout so fine that it graced the table of Prince Lazar’s court. The healing properties of its waters have been known since ancient times. Stefan Nemanja received the nearby region of Zagrlata Župa as a gift upon coming of age, and the waters were said to have nurtured and enhanced the beauty of Princess Milica and her ladies in waiting. It even enchanted the Ottomans, who built a Turkish bath – hamam – here. Prince Miloš ordered the waters of the spa to be analysed in Vienna in 1834, which is considered the beginning of its scientifically based development. From then on, it became a favourite retreat of Serbia’s royalty, earning the nickname “Royal Spa”. King Petar I Karađorđević was especially fond of it – he often stayed here and treated his rheumatism.
The waters gave the most beneficial effects on bones and joints, but they also contribute to overall health and well-being. In addition to medical treatments and the fresh, clean air of the Jastrebac, visitors can enjoy a variety of additional amenities – sport courts, outdoor thermal pools, an amphitheatre for cultural events, and therapeutic walking trails. Accommodation is provided in nine villas, built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. These grand, mostly restored buildings give the spa a distinctive charm – somewhat old fashioned, but mostly aristocratic. Thanks to them, the spa resembles a small, fairy-tale-like community nestled in nature.
At the heart of the spa is a little park with a fountain, where you can sit on a bench next to King Petar I, cast in bronze, and have a quiet chat with him. He will tell you that it was right here, on 25 August 1913, that the Declaration of the Return of Kosovo and Metohija to the Motherland, the Kingdom of Serbia, was signed.
VIDEO
On the road through Serbia: 6 reasons to visit Jastrebac / Episode 77
BECAUSE PROKUPLJE IS THE CITY OF IRON REGIMENT
Our journey continues and lead through Prokuplje. We simply have to stop by at least two of its most famous landmarks. The first one is Hisar, or the Prokuplje Fortress, perched on a hill surrounded on three sides by the Toplica River. The fort as we know it today was built in the second half of the 14th century, to defend against the Ottoman advance, on the foundations of much older, ancient structures. The most important buildings here are the Church of Saint Procopius, from the 10th century – after whom the town was named – and the Latin Church from the 14th century. The best preserved structure is Jug Bogdan’s Tower, a prominent stronghold on the bank of the Toplica. At the very top of the hill is a panoramic terrace, once home to a hospitality venue. Now it stands empty and abandoned, neglected and dirty. Shards of glass, pieces of furniture, and rags are scattered across the terrace from which a stunning view of the city unfolds. A shame and a disgrace.
But what Prokuplje can truly be proud of is the Monument to the Heroes of the Iron Regiment. It was erected at the very spot where, on 7 October 1912, soldiers from the Toplica region set of to war and earned their place in eternity. Of the hundreds of units that were mobilised from 1912 to 1918, only the Second Infantry Regiment “Knjaz Mihailo”, formed in Prokuplje, was awarded the honorary title – “the Iron one”. The memorial park is in the shape of Karađorđe Star, with a five meter tall, bullet shaped monument in its centre. It is the powerful symbol of courage and strength. Surrounding it are the busts of notable warriors, including Milunka Savić, the most decorated female soldier in history. Between them are plaques engraved with the names of the key battles in which the Iron Regiment fought. Encircling the monument are 255 concrete posts, each bearing the name of a Karađorđe Star medal recipient. Serbian flags wave from the nearby pillars. Dignified and well maintained – they are a worthy tribute to immortal heroes
BECAUSE THE VIDOJEVICA IS A STARRY MOUNTAIN
Another of Serbia’s mountain beauties rises near Prokuplje – an untouched, picturesque landscape where forested areas are interwoven with vast pastures. A place of silence, serenity, and a special kind of energy.
From the mountain lodge Beli kamen, a hiking trail leads all the way to Prokuplje. It is an exciting and enchanting walk that begins in a forest of towering trees, whose thick canopies shield the ground from the Sun’s rays. This forest once served as a refuge and a shelter for our army during the NATO aggression. Trenches and cables strung between the trees to hold the lighting are still visible to this days.
Vidojevica is also known as the starry mountain. For when the skies are clear, the stars shine so brightly and appear so close, that it feels like you could reach out and touch them. Thanks to its location, shielded from light pollution, scientists have chosen this spot for an astronomical observatory. Beneath its distinctive dome lies the largest telescope in the Balkans. Unfortunately, the observatory is not open to visitors, but many people still gather here to witness rare celestial events, such as meteor showers. Although modest in height – just around 1,155 meters – Bandera Peak offers spectacular views of the surrounding landscape and the vast sky above. Clearly, Vidojevica (“vid” means “vision” or “eyesight”) had not earn its name by chance.
And on the way to Žitni Potok, there is another hidden corner of health – a spring that locals claim produces the best water in Serbia. There is always someone here, filling up large containers to take this gift of nature home. We filled a few bottles ourselves. We do not know its mineral composition, but one thing is certain: it is absolutely delicious and ice-cold.
BECAUSE “BELI KAMEN“ ETHNO VILLAGE SERVES TRUE HOMEMADE FOOD
All that time spent in nature and breathing the mountain air left us more than a bit hungry. On the road across the Vidojevica lies the ethno village called “Beli kamen“ (White Stone). Quite large estate is offering accommodation in bungalows and rooms, along with a swimming pool for both adults and children. Guests are welcome for a day trip, an extended stay, or simply a hearty meal. One can dine on the terrace overlooking the lush landscape, or inside when the weather turns chilly. It is only right to replenish the calories we have burned, so we go for pljeskavica (hamburger), sausages, Morava salad, and freshly baked flatbread. The portions are generous, and the flavours are spot on.
BECAUSE KRUŠEVAC FILLING STATION OFFERS THE BEST “DRIVE CAFE“ COFFEE
So, what is missing on the mountain, can be found at NIS petrol stations. Each time when we refuel our four-wheeled pet, we treat ourselves as well. This time with a cup of top-quality Drive Cafe coffees. Always fresh, aromatic, with full and perfect flavour. We are putting lids on our cups filled with cappuccino and double espresso, to keep our black beverage hot as long as possible, so that we may enjoy in every sip slowly, while driving back home.
