This small town is tucked away almost in the very heart of Serbia, in the fertile region of Middle Pomoravlje, in the shadow of the slopes of the Kučaj Mountains. Filled with the waters of Grza and Crnica rivers, close to the Great Morava river and the fairy-tale nature interwoven with history and spirituality. It is an invitation to mingle not to be turned down.

BECAUSE PARAĆIN IS AN INTERSECTION OF ROADS

This area has been inhabited since early prehistoric times, in Roman times it was a trading post with a horse change station called Sarmates, and its today’s name originates from the settlement, the Parakin’s Ship Square (crossing), mentioned in the charter of Prince Lazar from the 14th century. In the mid-19th century, it gained the status of small town, and today, it lives peacefully on the banks of Crnica, harmoniously, somehow secretly, in accordance with the nearby natural rarities perhaps.

The most beautiful part extends along the Crnica river, which flows into the Great Morava River not far from the city. As limestone rocks make its waters white (bela in Serbian) at the source, it was once called Belica. But after one of the Ottoman iniquities, when the gathered people for a religious holiday were killed and their bodies thrown into the river, the water turned red, and the people started calling the river “black” (crna). Its banks, connected by several white, unusual pedestrian bridges, are adorned with well-maintained green areas with benches for rest. The Petrus Hotel stands out on the river itself, quite shaky on the outside. Above, on a hill, the Holy Trinity Church rises, with its today’s appearance dating from the end of the 19th century. It was built in Serbo-Byzantine style, with Baroque interior, while the icons on the wooden iconostasis came from Russia.

The city center is dominated by the Monument to the Fallen Warriors of World War I, and along the promenade there are many boutiques, cafés with gardens and pastry shops, but the famous traditional “Vasa’s cake” is nowhere to taste. The original recipe was created right here, and is a symbol of family love. Namely, tradition says that out of gratitude to her son-in-law, the mother-in-law made the most delicious cake made of almonds, walnuts and oranges, and out of respect, she named it “Vasina cake” after him. However, the tradition seems to have died down. Too bad, it could be a strong and tasty asset of the city for its visitors. And the people of Paraćin could then be affectionately called “Vasinci” and not “Džigerani” (derived from the Turkish word for “liver). They got their nickname during the visit of Prince Miloš Obrenović. As they did not know how to treat him with hospitality, they asked the people of Jagodina for advice. And they decided, witty as they are, to make a prank, proposing liver. Instead of satisfaction with the feast, the prince said in anger: “Liver, what kind of meat are you? People of Paraćin, what kind of people are you?” We did not ask whether the liver was banished forever from the culinary offer of Paraćin, but Vasa’s cake apparently was, unfortunately.

BECAUSE A CONTEMPORARY DINOSAUR LIVES IN THE LOCAL HERITAGE MUSEUM

It is housed in one of the first two-story buildings and probably the most impressive one in the city. The house of Judge Petar Ružić built in the 1870s. The setting is modest, the interior needs a little tweaking, but there are interesting things to see. In addition to the prehistoric, ancient, numismatic, and ethnological collection, the natural history collection is particularly interesting. Skulls and horns of “orijaš” deer, ibex, cave bear, and crocodile head fossil, from period when the Pannonian Sea was a lake, are on display. Its age is estimated at between 20 and 50 million years. So, the curator explains that it lived together with dinosaurs. Well, we learned that Kika and Vika, the mammoths, are not the oldest inhabitants of these areas, but that the title is held by Mr. Crocodile himself. The first floor features an overview of the economic development of Paraćin from a Turkish “kasaba” to a European town, and part of it was, of course, dedicated to the famous Paraćin glass.

BECAUSE THE DRIVE GO APP SAVES TIME

Time is money, as businesspeople often say, and most others do not like to waste it, much less wait in line. Modern technologies also came to the rescue. The Drive.Go mobile app allows drivers to pay at the refueling point itself, without leaving the vehicle. No crowds or nudges, quick and easy. And as summer approaches, even without sweating. Download the app and beat the heat. And spend the time you saved at your choice, as you wish.

BECAUSE THE PETRUSH AREA IS A SMALL HOLY MOUNTAIN OF ATHOS

The monumental complex of medieval buildings from the second half of the 14th and the first half of the 15th century covers the area around Crnica and Grza rivers. In this area, there was a border, the Krajina county, which Emperor Dušan assigned to the county prefect Vukosav and his two sons to administer. It was named after the Petrus fortress, built in the 12th century, on an elevation above Crnica near the village of Zabrega.

The village can be reached by road to the Ravanica monastery. There are signposts. It is interesting that a private estate needs to be crossed. Its owners do not charge for the passage, for now. You can also go along two wooden bridges, so if you drive a “muscle car”, it may be better to leave it on the way and walk along the river bank. The scenes are truly fairytale-like. We reach the St. John Monastery, with outer walls partially renovated, and niches where people put icons. On the other bank, there is a picnic area with a walled part for the preparation of various delicacies. Two excursionists are already preparing fish soup for their little gang, which joins a while. They invited us to join them and made welcome coffee. Everything was clean all around. Impeccable. Locals and local associations take great care of their paradise and often clean it themselves. They treat both nature and their guests as good hosts. Way to go.

A dirt pathway leads to the remnants of the fortification through the forest. An enchanted one. Giant deciduous trees make high natural corridors with their branched crowns. Thorough peace and tranquility. Wild tame. A different world. At the top, the remains of the former fortress – some walls and a cruciform rock. Sit down on the blooming grass or olden stones and enjoy the view.

Numerous churches and monasteries in the Moravian style were erected in the area, so the area is called Mala Sveta Gora (Little Athos). Today, the remains of the monasteries of Namasija or Manasinjac and Blaga Marija Petruška, the churches of St. George, Holy Sunday and the Holy Archangels can be seen. An incredible blend of history, spirituality and enchanting nature.

BECAUSE THE SPRINGS OF GRZA IS A FAIRYTALE

About twenty kilometers from Paraćin, there is the Nature Monument “Vrelo Grze” (Grza springs). One of the most amazing natural corners of the homeland. The Grza river springs at the foot of the South Kučaj mountain, at almost 500 meters of altitude. Water is flowing from several springs. Pure, crystal-clear, cold. Sliding down from stone cascades, dressed in velvety moss. Foaming and babbling constantly. As if it was whispering gently to the forest, its companion and its protector, in a language that can only be understood by the soul. You can rest on the benches or sit on large stones by the water – the closer the experience is, the more vivid, the more real it is. You can continue enjoying the atmosphere by exploring the surroundings, walking along the footpaths, through the forest, which lead to the lookout points. Downstream you will spot two blue-emerald lakes.

But wherever a person goes, care must be taken. It would be necessary to fill the holes with boards on those lovely wooden bridges over the Grza river, regularly take out the trash and install bins, of which there are only several, so even the most thoughtful ones have nowhere to dispose of it. It is not always negligent persons’ fault.

There are accommodation facilities, sports grounds, restaurants and cafés at the excursion site, and you can refresh yourself, but also spend a few days in this true jewel of nature. Nearby, in Lešje, there is the monastery of the Most Holy Mother of God from mid 14 century.

BECAUSE TROUT ROASTED IN OGNJIŠTE IS UNFORGETTABLE

Out of several restaurants on the excursion site, we chose the one made of stone and wood, appropriately named “Ognjište” (hearth). Because nature is home to everyone. The talkative and smiling hostess recommends “pljeskavica” on kaymak and neck. They’re melting. And the trout from the mountain of Rtanj, while she proudly smiles. And is there anything from the mystical mountain pyramid that isn’t magical? And besides, it is skillfully and experiencedly prepared. It is the perfect place for families because there is a spacious courtyard where the little ones can run carefree, while the grownups can take tame and enjoy in the perfection of taste. An excellent choice to spice up our encounter with the unreal beauty of Grza with a bite.

“The place where the friends are” is the slogan of this small town on the grove hills of Eastern Serbia, embraced by three Timok rivers, within reach of the fertile Stara Planina Mountain. Few travellers will decide to head towards this town formerly known as Gurgusovac, probably unaware that it features a diverse historical heritage, natural rarities, traditional domestic dining, and the charm that enchanted even one famous Frenchman.

BECAUSE KNJAŽEVAC IS A SMALL SERBIAN VENICE

The cave drawing in the area of the village of Gabrovnica testifies that the area was inhabited even in prehistoric times. It was inhabited by various tribes. Hordes of Huns and Avars passed through it. It was visited by many armies, and it often changed its lords, until its final liberation from the Ottomans and annexation to Serbia in 1833. According to one tradition, Gurgusovac was named after Grgur, the eldest son of Serbian Despot Đurađ Branković, and according to another story, it was named after pigeons (Serbian – gurgusan), which were numerous in the surrounding forests. Then, in 1859, Prince Miloš Obrenović came to visit the town and ordered the burning down of the infamous Gurgusovac Tower, which was a dungeon and a symbol of darkness and slavery at the time of the ruling Karađorđević Family. And so, in Miloš’s honour, it was renamed Knjaževac (literally translated as “the prince’s town”). Only the wall and the entrance gate have been preserved from the former Serbian Bastille, and the space is now used for public and cultural events.

Today, the town, tucked between the gentle plateaus of Tresibaba and Tupižnica mountains, in the hinterland of Stara Planina, is affectionately called Serbian Venice or Little Venice. It is spread on the banks of two Timok rivers, the Svrljiški Timok and Trgoviški Timok, which merge into the Beli Timok near this town. Seven small bridges were built over the rivers, the most famous of which is the stone one. Along the water, there are promenades with rows of linden and chestnut trees. They are most captivating in the spring when they get their leaves and spread their lovely scent. The spirit of old times vibrates with the Old Town. It is divided into the upper part, containing stores and craft shops dating from the period of Ottoman rule, and the lower part with inns and taverns with residential units on the first floor that were built after the liberation. It’s very colourful and appealing. The gratitude to the people of Timok who gave their lives for freedom was expressed by the people of Knjaževac in the Memorial Park, which is also a representation of historical events from 1804 until the end of the Second World War. The greatest decoration of the town is considered by many to be the church of St. George. The construction began in 1833 in honour of the first visit of Prince Miloš. During the Serbian-Ottoman War, it was burned down in 1876, but it was quickly restored. In its treasury, it keeps the Gospel from 1805 and the remains of the old iconostasis.

The picturesque architecture of Knjaževac was immortalized by the famous French architect, painter, and writer of Swiss origin, Le Corbusier. When the road took him here at the beginning of the 20th century, he was so inspired that he took a pencil and made a drawing of Knjaževac, which is kept in the National Museum in Belgrade. More than a century ago, the French pickiness and the Swiss pettiness succumbed in front of, as many say, the most beautiful city of eastern Serbia. And today? It should be cleaned and washed first, and then, dilapidated and filthy facades of many buildings, some of which are quite striking, should be restored. Then, it could truly be Miloš’s pride and worthy of its nickname.

But unlike the city, its surrounding areas seem to get a lot of care. Just five kilometres away, on the coast of the Svrljiški Timok, there is a spa, Rgoška Banja, known as Banjica among the local people. At the spring of the healing water, a natural lake was formed, with a constant water temperature of 28 degrees. It was found to be quite healing, so the small spa was turned into a well-maintained excursion site with a parking lot, outdoor furniture, a children’s playground, and a small restaurant. The water from the thermal spring is transported to swimming pools in the nearby Banjica Sports and Recreation Centre, where there is an Olympic swimming pool, a children’s water park, sports grounds, a restaurant, and a small spa. In winter, the large pool is covered so you can have a swim in the beneficial warm water throughout the year.

BECAUSE THE HOMELAND MUSEUM IS THE HERITAGE OF THE RICH HISTORY OF THE REGION

It is housed in a building from the beginning of the 20th century, a former house of the rich Sibinović family, which was renovated for the needs of the museum. In the left wing, there is an archaeological collection, which contains more than 2000 objects that have been found on the territory of the municipality of Knjaževac, presented chronologically and thematically. In the right wing, there is an art collection consisting of about 1000 paintings, graphics, drawings, icons, sculptures, reproductions, and other objects of visual art, as well as an ethnological collection. A special and honorary place is occupied by double-knit wool socks. The most beautiful part of the traditional folk costume of the Knjaževac region was created in the period from the 18th to the 20th century. They are unique in the world. Traditional folk costumes and civil clothes, fabrics, furniture, homemade items, musical instruments, technical devices, and items from ordinary life are on display. A varied and interesting setting.

You should also take a peek at the Museum of the City of Knjaževac, in the house of Aleksa Aca Stanojević, a renowned radical and close associate of Nikola Pašić. In addition to his personal items, many valuable objects obtained from old Knjaževac families from the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century are on display.

BECAUSE THE VILLAGE OF RAVNA WAS A ROMAN FORTRESS

About ten kilometres from Knjaževac, in the fertile valley of the Beli Timok River, on two hectares, lies the oldest military fortress in the Timok region. The construction of Timacum Minus began in the middle of the 1st century. Within its walls, you could find a granary, military buildings, and a treasury. Due to its important position and proximity to ore deposits, a civilian settlement soon developed next to the military camp, as well as necropolises, villas, and temples dedicated to various Roman deities. The settlement was destroyed in a fire in the middle of the 5th century. Today, excavated parts of the walls and some buildings within the walls can be seen, and only the southern gate, which dominates the area, has been restored. It is known that excavations are carried out slowly and carefully, so diligent archaeologists will surely discover more interesting items.

Nearby is the Ravna archaeological and ethnological park, a combination of ancient, Roman past, folk architecture and rural life from the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. In the courtyard of the old village school, a lapiradium was formed with gravestones, honorary monuments, and altars from Timacum Minus, while some items found in an ancient settlement are displayed in the school building. The rest of the space is dedicated to the rural community of the Timok region at the end of the 19th century. You can visit the old Moravian house, built in Bundwerk construction style, which was moved from Stara Planina, within which there is a fireplace and, of course, a tripod, a barn, a replica of an ancient and traditional pottery stove, a cauldron for making brandy, and a house in whose basement there is an exhibition space on winemaking of the region. Everything is very nicely designed and presented.

You can explore some ancient excavations, then take a walk through a Serbian village of two centuries ago, and then return to the present. And see its most exciting and most gentle aspects. Come, visit, experience, and decide.

BECAUSE ŽDRELO GORGE RESEMBLES GREEK METEORA

Do not expect a rocky and religious miracle that the Greeks boast of, but you will certainly find wilderness, as wild as it can get. You should follow the road to the village of Stogazovac. Along the way, there are unpleasant scenes of crumbling, collapsed, and abandoned houses. When you reach the information board, tuck your vehicle somewhere, and start walking along the dirt road. Enjoy the environment where the most amazing movies could be made. In the spring, when nature flourishes, it must resemble a fairy tale. But now, under the heavy clouds of the frowning sky, it seems unfathomably mysterious. The gorge, about 300 meters long, is cut into karst rocks, whose age is estimated at 120 million years, and the highest cliffs rise to 80 meters above the Zubetinačka River. Precisely because of the rock configuration, it resembles the Greek Meteora, so the people nicknamed Ždrelo the Meteora of Knjaževac. In the riverbed, there is a spring of “holy water”, which the locals call the “Dining Room of God”. They say that it has never dried up and that it is healing for the eyes. The lookout points can be reached by a well-maintained two-kilometre-long pedestrian path. Along the way is Vidovdan church, which, according to tradition, was built by the Prince Lazar. Today’s building was built on old foundations in the first half of the last century. The road further leads to the highest cliff where a fence and a large cross are placed. The view from there is unforgettable.

BECAUSE EVERYTHING IS HOME-MADE IN THE MERAKLIJSKI PODRUM RESTAURANT

Honestly, we didn’t know where to dine. We consulted with a modern know-it-all, a mobile phone. From the offered restaurants in the area, we chose by name – “meraklijski” (Serb. enjoying good food, drink, and music) always sounds tempting. Again, we call on modern technology to show us the way to the hidden alley and the barely visible Meraklijski podrum sign. Everything inside is made of wood, with plaid tablecloths, traditional decoration, and a brick fireplace with a flickering fire. The landlady, who is also the head chef, said that she had just prepared oven-baked beans and fresh buns. We must apologise to the Macedonians, but these beans were tastier and juicier. She recommends pork fillet, topped with traditional cream, kajmak, which melts in the mouth, and hamburger, according to her recipe, finely filled with onions. And a plate of cow cheese, homemade, perfect. We ate and drank enough for a month, and we spent a reasonable amount of money. A walk around Knjaževac certainly does not lead to this tucked-away corner with traditional hospitality and food, but when your stomach gets cramps, we recommend calming it down here.

BECAUSE THE DRIVE.GO APP IS THE FASTEST FRIEND ON THE ROAD

Sometimes every minute counts. But speeding is never smart, and it is often a dangerous solution. So, if you are in a hurry, it is the safest decision to save some time at the petrol station. The Drive.Go mobile app allows you to pay at the refuelling point, without leaving the vehicle. It’s simple, in just a few steps – by scanning the QR code and pressing pay. In no time. Spending just the time needed to refuel the vehicle. This gives you enough time to drive safely to your desired destination.

We remember our glorious ancestors and their long-lasting, persistent, and heroic fight for liberation from the Ottomans. This year marks 220 years since the beginning of the First Serbian Uprising and almost 190 years since the adoption of the Sretenje Constitution. We are off to the slopes of the Dičina and Klatičevska River, to the homeland of staunch rebels and notable oak trees.

BECAUSE THE WOODEN TAKOVO CHURCH IS THE CHURCH OF REBELS

“Let all the burden fall on our soul, our shoulders, and our honour…”, answered the crowd in unison at the people’s assembly, after Miloš Obrenović announced the beginning of a new rebellion, the Second Serbian Uprising, on the Palm Sunday in 1815. On the hill in front of the wooden church, after the morning liturgy. The attendees then took communion, swore allegiance to each other and headed to the centuries-old oak trees in the nearby valley, where a large group of rebels ready for battle was waiting for them.

The church dedicated to St. George was built in 1795 on the site of a building built around seventy years before it. With a foundation of hewn stone, made of oak planks. A typical example of a wooden cabin built by the builders from Osat in Bosnia. The wooden door is decorated with rich carving. It is rather low. So that one needs to bend when entering and so that Ottomans wouldn’t enter it on horseback. The iconostasis, whose parts were donated by Jovan, Miloš’s brother, is still preserved. It was renovated in 1935. In the churchyard, there is still a stone from which Miloš gave his rebellious speech, and an old village cemetery with tombstones, some of which are decorated with unusual patterns and crosses, and some have a sabre or a rifle carved on them. Not far from the wooden church is the Church of St. Sava in Savinac, the first endowment of Miloš Obrenović in liberated Serbia.

BECAUSE THE MUSEUM OF THE SECOND SERBIAN UPRISING IS A REPRESENTATION OF THE SERBIAN REVOLUTION

It was opened in 1994 at the former elementary school in Takovo, the endowment of King Aleksandar Obrenović. It gives an overview of the fight against the Ottomans, from the First Serbian Uprising in 1804 to the end of the first Miloš’s rule in 1839, the so-called Serbian Revolution. The most important exhibits are the remains of the famous old Takovo oak tree, and Paja Jovanović’s masterpiece “The Takovo Uprising”, from 1895. It is the first version of the painting and is larger than the second, which is the property of the National Museum in Belgrade. Other important items include Miloš’s ceremonial suit, albeit a replica, because the original is in Belgrade, and the blanket for his horse. Many other works of art are also on display, including original and copies of documents, publications and correspondence, objects for everyday use, the earliest modern decorations, state symbols, and weapons. A walk around a small but beautifully designed exhibition gives a rather interesting overview of the rebellious Serbia.

A few kilometres away is the residence of Prince Miloš in Gornja Crnuća. Although it has a permanent exhibition setting, it is difficult to see it. Unfortunately, we did not succeed in it. The residence is located on a private property, surrounded by houses and outbuildings, and there is no permanent host. It was renovated about ten years ago and is of great cultural importance. The building is considered the first court of modern Serbia. It is the place of the session of the insurgent assembly, and the capital of the Principality until its relocation to Kragujevac in 1818. After the announcement of the popular rebellion in the wooden church, Miloš went to this residence, put on his most festive suit, unwrapped an insurgent flag and shouted in front of the gathered people: “Here I am, and here is the war with the Ottomans”!

BECAUSE THE TAKOVO OAK TREE REPRESENTS THE FREEDOM OF SERBIA

A few kilometres from the Museum, there is a historically significant place, decorated in the memory of the Second Serbian Uprising, the liberation from the Ottomans, and the creation of the modern Serbian state. The area from the slope is dominated by the monumental bronze monument “The Takovo Uprising”, the work of Petar Ubavkić, which represents the moment of the declaration of the uprising. It overlooks a wide field of a few hectares, which is adorned with several monuments. A stone path leads to the obelisk “Under the Takovo Oak Tree”, which was built by the grateful people of the Rudnik area at the end of the 19th century. Made of marble, with carved insurgent and state insignia, it also includes the verses of Aleksa Nenadović: “This oak tree will dry up during time and the stone pillar will collapse, but Serbia will always stand straight and mention the name of Miloš with pride.” Behind it is a meadow on which the summer house of Aleksandar Obrenović should be rebuilt, once a three-story building with 36 rooms, with its exterior resembling the villas of the Austrian aristocracy and with its interior in the style of Šumadija region in Serbia. The castle of Takovo was destroyed in a fire in 1917 under unexplained circumstances. There is a sign of the place of the old pedunculate oak tree, under which the battle for freedom began. It was a real monstrosity. 23 meters high and with the trunk circumference of nine meters. However, over time, it began to deteriorate, so the people linked the fate of the oak tree to the fate of the Obrenović dynasty. Namely, the larger branch broke off in 1860, foreshadowing the death of Miloš, the smaller one eight years later when Mihailo was killed, and in 1901 the storm uprooted it, announcing the collapse of the Obrenović dynasty. However, during his life, Prince Mihailo renewed the sacred Serbian tree. The successor was planted in 1865. It was leafy until the 1990s, and now it is a dried-up natural sculpture. A century later, a sapling of the third Takovo oak tree was planted opposite it. In honour of the unforgettable words of Prince Mihailo that “as long as there a Serbian state and people exist, there shall be an oak tree growing in Takovo as a symbol of freedom and independence”.

BECAUSE RAJAC IS A LITTLE HEAVEN ON EARTH

After an exciting walk through the history, it is worth taking a breath of fresh air and allowing impressions to sink in. In nature, of course. Nearby, about fifteen kilometres from the notable oak trees, there is Rajac, a favourite excursion site of many. The area on Suvobor Mountain stretches at an altitude of 600 to 850 meters. According to tradition, it got its name from old travel writers, who saw it as a heaven on earth (Serbian word “raj” means heaven). A lot of people would agree. It is best to get to know it on foot. There are several landscaped trails, so you can choose which suits you best. The length and names of the trails are highlighted on a wooden board next to the mountain lodge, in the centre of the place. And whether they diverge along the way and whether there are signposts at the crossroads, you will find out for yourself. But it doesn’t matter if you stray a little. Through gentle, spacious meadows and glades interwoven with clear streams and rivers, through forests of beech, oak, birch, fir, and pine trees, the connoisseurs of Rajac say that you will surely reach an area of unexpected natural beauty, probably even a cave. You may also encounter a bunny, a fox, a roe deer, and even a wild boar. Or hosts of chalets who will surely show you the way, and possibly offer some refreshment.

Natural beauties also exhibit traces of their history. At the centre, near the mountain lodge, there is a monument to the brave fighters of the Battle of Kolubara. Next to it is a scythe sculpture, in honour of the famous manifestation “Mowing on Rajac”, which is held every year. A notice board has also been set up, indicating catering and accommodation facilities and natural beauties, so it is necessary to study it before embarking on an adventure. For adrenaline seekers, Rajac is also known for paragliding. It is perhaps the most beautiful way to experience this small natural paradise of Suvobor Mountain.

BECAUSE THE RESTAURANT TIP-TOP IS TRUE TO ITS NAME

On the Ibarska main road, near the exit for the Miloš the Great motorway, we stop for some refreshment. In the pleasant interior, we are welcomed by a hospitable lady. After a mountain walk, veal broth is always a great choice, with freshly baked, hot buns. As the taverns by the road are known for their delicious barbecue, we do not think much. We order dry-cured pork neck and ćevapi dish, with hot peppers and refreshing salads, with a piece of goat cheese. Food and service are almost completely in accordance with the name – Tip-Top. And prices are more than decent. Warm recommendation for a break and traditional abundant food.

BECAUSE COFFEE SHOULD ALWAYS BE TOP-QUALITY

We always leave the pleasure of having the black drink for our favourite places – NIS Petrol and Gazprom. The reason is simple – the coffee is always fresh and top-notch. And we can choose the coffee type and size of the cup. It suits every taste and desire. Sometimes we take a break in the Drive Cafe restaurant, and sometimes we take the coffee away and enjoy it on the way home so that we can enjoy its pleasant scent during the entire trip.

“Nice people, a quiet river, and wheat fields of Banat, a beautiful young girl, and an enchanting song of tamburitza players,” says the song about the city on the Begej river. Stories about its bridges, sumptuous architecture, multiculturalism, beer, and sports grandmasters arouse curiosity. Well, let’s satisfy it.

BECAUSE ZRENJANIN IS THE HEART OF THE BANAT PLAIN

It was first mentioned in 1326 as a village built on three islands of the Begej River. It was inhabited by many, even Spaniards, and almost became New Barcelona. Throughout history, it often changed its names – Becskerek, Veliki Becskerek, Petrovgrad, and Zrenjanin – named after the national hero Žarko Zrenjanin in 1946. It could also carry several nicknames, certainly Serbian Budapest, due to the number of bridges. We admit, Begej is not Danube, but even the blue European giant is not quite as powerful in the Hungarian capital as it becomes as soon as it escapes to Serbia. The flow of the river through the city was constantly changed, a little by nature, more by man. So, as many as 10 bridges were built over water. The oldest is the Small Bridge, built in 1904, and the newest is the 1992 Magistral Bridge. It also has three pedestrian bridges, a hanging and two arched ones.

The main Liberty Square is adorned by the County Palace, today the City Hall, the monument to King Peter I Karađorđević and the Roman Catholic cathedral from the mid-19th century, dedicated to St. John Nepomucene, who is considered the patron saint of bridges and rivers. There are magnificent buildings all over the place. The National Museum, the Palace of Justice, the Dunđerski Palace, and the House of Martial Arts, a work of Dragiša Brašovan, stand out for their beauty. Green oases in several spacious and landscaped parks add to its beauty as well. It is home to more than 20 national minorities, so various languages can be heard, and various religious objects can be seen. The Church of the Dormition of the Most Holy Mother of God from 1746 is the oldest preserved building and one of only a few that survived the great fire in the early 19th century. The Slovak Evangelical Church dates from the first half of the 19th century, while the Reformist Church dates from the end of the same century. There used to be a synagogue, but at the beginning of World War II it was destroyed by Nazi occupiers.

In the summer, people rush to the outskirts of the city, to the well-maintained beach, Peskara, which lies on three lakes due to many years of sand exploitation. We do not know whether the famous swimmer Ivan Lenđer swam here, but Zrenjanin is a certified nursery of champions, and perhaps the sportiest city in Serbia. It is difficult to count the medals won by athlete Ivana Španović, volleyball players Maja Ognjenović and Jovana Brakočević, karate athlete Snežana Perić, the Grbić brothers, Dejan Bodiroga… We might have met a future sports grandmaster along the way, because the blood of the winners flows here, next to the Begej river.

BECAUSE WALKING IN “CORSO” (PROMENADE) IS FOR ENJOYING ARCHITECTURE

Throughout history, the street has changed names depending on who ruled Zrenjanin, and today it bears the name of King Aleksandar I Karadjordjević.  Just as a reminder who used to own everything here. The buildings in a separate part of the preserved old town were built in the second half of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, in the spirit of Art Nouveau or historicism with neo-baroque elements. Particularly noteworthy are the building of the Torontal Bank (Croatian Savings Bank), the palace of Jovan Panji and the house of Živko Vukov from the end of the 18th century, the only residential building from the baroque period. Particularly interesting is the house of the stonecutter Tuner Teodosije from 1900, known as “Scheherazade”, who walked out of 1001 nights to give Zrenjanin Moorish charms. There are many noteworthy buildings, and the sightseeing can take a long time. Numerous hospitality and restauration places in Zrenjanin’s pedestrian street, lively, clean and harmoniously decorated, offer respite and refreshment.

BECAUSE THE BEER MUSEUM PRESERVES THE HISTORY OF MAKING LIQUID BREAD

It is a recent one, but quite interesting, especially to beer drinkers. It settled in a renovated old plant, a brewery, that is, “a beer kitchen”. The walls and floor of the most important unit in beer production are lined with Brač stone in eight colors, and the entrance part, overlooking the river, is made of Italian glass. Uncannily luxurious for a brewery.

On display are a steam engine from the end of the 19th century, a filter machine, an old barley mill, made in Germany, a barrel bench for making beer barrels, copper cauldrons, and an old barrel with the inscription Dungyersky. You can also see old photos, beer bottles, mugs, labels, old tools, and many other interesting items.

One of the oldest drinks is made from yeast, hops, barley, and water. It is also often nicknamed “liquid bread” due to its high nutritional and energy value. It was brought to Zrenjanin by the German Sebastian Kreizeisen in 1745. The brewery’s boom is related to the Dunđerski family. It was taken over at the end of the 19th century, expanded and brewed beer using the best, Pilsen, technology, and the production of Zrenjanin beer continued this way. After being nationalized after World War II, it operated until 2007.

In accordance with its long beer tradition, Zrenjanin has been hosting Beer Day since 1986. Whether it flows from the taps in heaven, we will not know in this world; but we know for sure that in the last week of August it is abundant in the Banat beer paradise. No overindulging, because the infamous beer belly is lurking from the shadows.

BECAUSE A CONTEMPORARY GALLERY PRESERVES VALUABLE POST-WAR WORKS

It all started about seventy years ago in the Art Colony in the village of Ečka, near Zrenjanin. Not long after that, the Contemporary Gallery was founded, taking care of the works created in the Colony, and it was in 1964 that the city put everything under its roof in the Contemporary Gallery in Zrenjanin. The collection, which consists of paintings, sculptures, etchings, drawings, pastels, watercolors, tapestries, photographs, digital and video works, and installations, was mainly produced by artists who resided in the colony. Among the better known are Jovan Bijelić, Milan Konjović, Miodrag Mića Popović, and Uroš Đurić. But over time, it was also enriched by various donations, the most important of which was that of the Federal Executive Council of Yugoslavia. Thus, nowadays it also proudly features the works of greats artists who did not stay in the colony – Beta Vukanović, Stojan Aralica and Petar Lubarda. The collection contains about 2,800 artworks by artists from the former Yugoslavia and abroad. It beautifully represents contemporary fine arts in this area from 1946 to the present day.

BECAUSE THE RUSANDA SPA TREATS WITH MUD FROM THE SALT LAKE

It has settled in the only forest-like landscape in Banat, within the Rusanda Nature Park, a protected area. It is surrounded by meadow-steppe and wetland habitats. The environment is inhabited by more than 200 species of birds, so you can hear chirping all around. It lies on the shore of the lake of the same name. It is neither large nor deep, but the waters are saltier than the sea. Its salinity of around 60 percent. However, the bottom is especially interesting. It contains of a special type of mud that has been used for therapeutic purposes since the second half of the 19th century, with healing properties confirmed by the Imperial Academy in Vienna. “Peloid”, the mud of the Rusanda Spa, is extracted by boats in a traditional way and after use, collected and returned to the lake. A bit of sustainability, even more nature and birds, and most of all – well-being and enjoyment.

BECAUSE RIBS ARE A MASTERPIECE IN STARA ZANATLIJA

Old craftsmen in the past, and today true admirers of a good snack gather here. The tastes of large portions are complemented by a home-like atmosphere in the spirit of old Serbian and Vojvodina taverns with a multitude of ethnic motifs. Such are both hospitality and service. All kinds of delights are offered here, but we were attracted by “zanatlijska rebarca” (artisanal ribs). They are served with potatoes and “kaymak”. Juicy, made with in a genuinely traditional way. It’s a savoring experience to remember. And if your table is spiced up by the old-town music of tamburitza musicians…Your heart will bring you here a few more times.

BECAUSE WE ARE ALWAYS WITH YOU

Wherever you go, up and down our beautiful country, you are not alone. Nothing can surprise you while you’re on the road, because you are always in the immediate vicinity of one of the over 300 NIS Petrol and Gazprom petrol stations, as a true support to every adventure or journey you take.

Serbia has long been famous for its healthful springs and spa resorts. In the summer, multitude converge on them instead the seaside. There are meteorologists who predict, in the foreseeable future that these resorts might replace many ski centres, as there will be less snow. Serbia could benefit from this gloomy forecast. However, the question is whether the undisputed queen of this country’s spa tourism is ready to offer a year-round quality and entertaining stay? We explored Vrnjačka Banja in late autumn.

VRNJAČKA BANJA IS ALL-SEASON RESORT

At the altitude of about 220 meters above the sea level, protected from frosty winds by the Goč and Gledić Mountains, covered in thick woods, this area has always been salutiferous and soothing. Who and when was the first to discover and benefit from the mineral waters of this spa is not known for sure. The Romans most certainly did. A testament to this is a Roman fount teaming with a myriad of coins with images of Roman emperors. During the rule of the Ottomans, the people buried healing springs to prevent the conquerors from indulging in their bounteous effects. With liberation from the Turks, the development of a modern spa began.

Today, the Vrnjačka Banja Spa is the most famous and most visited resort in Serbia. In addition to seven well-known springs of mineral water, well-arranged so that you can refresh and invigorate yourself while walking and exploring, it is also adorned with a considerable number of noble antique villas with luxurious architecture. The Belimarković Castle, today home to the Local Area Museum, is particularly noteworthy. It is particularly proud of its bridges over the Vrnjačka River. The most famous is the Bridge of Love. It is totally covered in padlocks with which lovers lock their hearts together. It preserves the memory of two young people who were separated by the whirlwind of the Great War. The Serbian soldier did not return from the battlefield in Greece because of his new love, and his beloved withered from grief.

The poetic spirit of the spa is expressed on the Scrapbook Bridge, where boards with verses by famous Serbian poets are placed, while the Distance Bridge indicates the distance to certain world metropolises. The Golden Bridge celebrates mathematics, perhaps the only one in the world dedicated to this science feared by many schoolchildren, which preserves the memory of the grandmaster Svetozar Gligorić who played a simultaneous chess display on several dozens of chess boards by the river. Then, there is little bridge called “Ko to tamo peva” (or: Who dares to sing there?!) is a kind of homage to film artists who were welcome guests of the spa, especially Danilo Bata Stojković and his unforgettable line: “I would drive the bus this way”. Even the indestructible Mr. “Big Moustache” would hardly be able to do it over a tiny structure, but kudos for the idea. Every bridge has its own story and there is a lot to learn.

There are plenty of entertainment and sports events for all ages. Arranged playgrounds for children, an artificial rock for climbing, a zoo, carriage rides, a cinema… Among the newest attractions is the Ferris wheel, which allows you to observe the environment from a height of 50 meters, and the large water park Raj (or paradise in Serbian). By constantly enriching the contents, the dwellers of Vrnjačka Banja managed to transform their medicinal spa into a tourist resort that lives healthy and vibrantly all year round.

FAR EAST SPIRIT PERMEATES JAPANESE GARDEN

The best way to bring together two different cultures and two distant peoples is through nature. The garden inside the main spa park is decorated according to the Japanese concept – an artificial pond, a cascading waterfall, a wooden bridge, narrow paved paths, a wooden tea house, and unusual lamps that illuminate it at night. The art of simple, asymmetrical lines that reflect the harmony of nature. It exudes the scents and colours of a distant island country. And of course, everything is spick and span, Japanese way. Well, the Japanese know not only how to work, but also how to create a perfect natural oasis for rest and relaxation. Along with the one in Belgrade, it is the only Japanese garden in Serbia.

Right next to it is the Vrnjački Labyrinth. Along a kilometre-long path, you may wander through a green corridor made of 440 conifers in search of an exit. Feel free to enter; there are no vicious dragons or traps. A very nice addition to the overall natural atmosphere.

A WALK IN THE PROMENADE OF VRNJAČKA BANJA IS UNFORGETABLE EXPERIENCE

The promenade stretches along the banks of the Vrnjačka River. Shallow during most of the year, calm and quiet, it murmurs sometimes only under the dense canopy of linden trees, whose branches hug above it. They spread divine scents in the spring! We must return to the time when the lindens are in bloom. Numerous bridges make it easy to cross the river. On one side is a park with hundred-year-old trees, diverse lush vegetation and colourful flower arrangements. Artistic touches are given by sculptural works placed everywhere. It is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful and well-kept parks we have visited. On the other bank, there are wooden stalls with various trinkets, pictures and souvenirs, many cafes, restaurants and hotels, some located in old, luxurious buildings. In the central part are the fountain and Gočak, a sparrow dressed in the national costume of central Serbia, the symbol of the spa. From the other bank rises the church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, a newer building with an unusual orange-toned facade colour. Lively, attractive, cheerful, and relaxed. Clean and tidy. Good for the locals, but also for the visitors.

CHURCH HILL BRINGS NATURE AND CULTURE TOGETHER

On Culture Square, where the Museum of Spa Tourism is located, above the artificial waterfall, rises Crkveno, also known as Chaika’s Hill. It used to be called Aleksandrovo brdo and the Rock of romantic beauty, for a reason. The cultural-historical entity is protected by law. It nurtures more than 150 types of plants and dozens of buildings, mostly beautiful villas, some of which are cultural monuments. The stairs lead to the amphitheatre named after Bata Stojković. On the summer stage, there is also a memorial room of the great Serbian actor, full of books and his personal belongings. At the top are the fountain of King Peter II, the parish house and the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary, built in the thirties of the 19th century. The three-kilometre-long hiking trail of Patriarch Pavle begins nearby. At the highest point, there is a lookout point with a statue of a girl with a bird, from where there is perhaps the most beautiful view of Vrnjačka Banja and the surrounding area.

LJUBOSTINJA IS ETERNAL LOVE’S DWELLING

A few kilometres from Trstenik, in lush nature, at the foot of the Gledić Mountains, the first women’s monastery in Serbia was established. It was built by empress Milica at the dawn of the Kosovo War, at the end of 1388. There are many interpretations about the name, which is truly unusual for an Orthodox shrine. According to the oldest, it comes from the word ljubvestin/ljubvostin/ljubostinja – place of love. Namely, there used to be a small church here, where a council was held at the beginning of August. One year, Milica, the daughter of Vratko Nemanjić, known as Jug Bogdan, and Prince Lazar appeared on it. That’s where they saw each other for the first time and fell in love. Wanting to immortalize the first meeting with her future husband, Milica built a magnificent temple dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary on the site of a small church. According to another interpretation, the name comes from the word ljubo-pustinja (pustinja is desert in Serbian), love for hermit, ascetic life, because in the early Middle Ages, an unusually large number of hermits lived in nearby bays and skits. And the third story says that the church is named after the toponymal of a lovely rock, since it is located at the foot of Samar, the highest peak of the Gledić Mountains. Which one is true is hard to determine, but love takes precedence, always and forever.

The magnificent stone building, in the Moravian style, was the work of Rade Borović, popularly known as Rade the Builder. Particularly impressive are the stone interlacing that frame the doors, windows and arcades and rosettes of unequal sizes with geometric and floral decorations filled with lace patterns. The unusual beauty of Ljubostinja, which is considered the perfection of the Moravian school, was perhaps best described by Bishop Nikolaj Velimirović in the poem Construction of the Ljubostinja Monastery.

„ Rade is building the Ljubostinja temple,

Intricately decorating walls, his craftsmanship so ample,

Lacing marble like a gown of a dame,

as if marble were embroidery frame”.

The painting of the monastery was being completed in two stages, after the Battle of Kosovo and at the turn of the 15th century. As the Ottoman Turks burned it, most of the paintings were destroyed. The visible frescoes are more recent. The interior is dominated by a beautiful iconostasis from the first half of the 19th century.

After the Battle of Kosovo, the princess became a nun and spent the rest of her life in Ljubostinja with numerous sorority and nun Jefimija, the wife of Uglješa Mrnjavčević and the first Serbian poetess. It was here that she embroidered the famous Praise to Prince Lazar, a masterpiece of embroidery art and one of the most significant poetic creations of Serbian medieval literature. For both of them, as well as for many widows of Kosovo heroes, Ljubostinja is an eternal home. Dignified, magnificent, discreet. As if somewhat concealed, unfortunately. If your trip takes you to this area, be sure to visit Milica’s beauty.

IN STOPANJA ROAST MEAT MELTS DOWN IN YOUR MOUTH

Between the towns of Trstenik and Kruševac, there is a settlement famous for its meat roasting competitions, or Pečenjijada in Serbian. It is not surprising that the event has taken root here. So, Stopanja, its official name, has the greatest number of meat roasting shops per capita in Serbia. Here, the skewer is turned at almost every corner.

The road takes us to a meat roasting shop, the namesake of the village, Stopanja. Meagre, but clean, hospitable and cordial atmosphere prevails. Usually roast lamb is also offered, but this time we were late, so only roast piglet was on the table. Fresh, lean, hot, with a crispy crust. It is eaten without bread and salad. It’s so delicious. Whichever roasting place in Stopanja you choose, you won’t go wrong. Your palate will be gloriously pampered.

The TV show was recorded before the beginning of the Christmas Lent. To all who are fasting, we wish them to overcome all temptations with perseverance.

And don’t forget, you can get to any destination faster with the Drive.Go application, with the help of which you pay for fuel at the petrol station, without leaving the vehicle and going to the cash register.

An Indian summer has given us a few more days to enjoy the benefits of nature. Instead of the West, whose seductive power we have already confirmed, we turn our compass towards the East. Always mystical and enchanting, full of surprises. We are going to the mining region of our homeland and the landscapes where nature still successfully resists man.

BECAUSE THE LAZAR’S CANYON IS A MYSTERIOUS PLACE

Wow! We couldn’t help but exclaim when our eyes saw the wonderfully carved cliffs covered with a green carpet. From a landscaped platform near the end of Lazar’s Canyon… Almost vertical giant walls overgrown with diverse vegetation extend their rocky hands to the other riverbank. To bridge the water. In some places, it is as if they are touching. And here and there, it seems they are tightly hugging. Somewhere, the boulders are indeed entrapped, and the two banks are connected. What’s at their bottom cannot be seen. The fence is installed at a safe distance from the edge. Do not even try to skip it, it is too steep, slippery, and dangerous. Sit back and enjoy. Here the words are silenced, and the imagination becomes playful.

The Lazar’s River and its tributaries – Demižlok, Mikulj and Vejska River – cut through the limestone massif of the eastern rim of the Kučaj Mountains and made a gorge. It is the longest and deepest in eastern Serbia.

With a multitude of crevices, ravines, and caves. The cliffs rise above 350 meters, and in the narrowest part, the width is less than seven meters. Like scenes from a fairy tale or a science fiction movie. Whether it was chosen as a sanctuary by elves and wizards is unknown. It’s not explored enough. But it is certainly a habitat of a diverse world of plants and animals. It is one of the most important biodiversity centres in the Balkans. This is the home of the Crimean Pine and relic species – yew tree and Serbian ramonda, a delicate purple flower.

„There used to be dozens of pairs of eagles, thousands of swallows, and chamois would walk everywhere in the evening”, reveals a local explorer whom we met at the viewpoint. „And then tourists rushed in and brought modern technologies, endangered them, and many ran away”, the nature conservationist recalls sadly and angrily the time when the human foot rarely walked here. But there is some good news. A few years ago, a couple of bears were brought in, and now five of them are lounging around the gorge. It seems that the giant growlers took to their new habitat.

Because of its wilderness and inaccessibility, it was a haven for fighters against the Ottoman Empire, whose soldiers did not dare to enter it. And when it comes to its name, there are several stories. According to one, it was named after Lazar, a fighter against Ottomans, who found his refuge here. And after the other story, it got its name after Prince Lazar, who stayed here with his horsemen. And it certainly has that unconquerable character. The name undoubtedly suits it.

Passing through one of the most impassable canyons is a great challenge even for true adventurers. It requires a lot of skill, good fitness, but also courage. It is visited during longer dry periods, in groups and preferably with a guide, with mandatory protective equipment.

We had to take a macadam road to the viewpoint we visited. It is rather steep, with larger stones all along it, so it is necessary to drive carefully. You can also walk along the landscaped path from Lazar’s Cave, the longest one in Serbia. There are several more viewpoints, each providing a completely new and different experience of the homeland. The Lazar Canyon is a natural monument. Its beauty is out of the ordinary and untouched, for now.

BECAUSE BOR IS THE MINING HEART OF SERBIA

It was mentioned for the first time in the 18th century. It began to develop with the opening of the copper mine in 1903, and it gained the status of a city after the Second World War. At the entrance to the city, there is a small square with a revolving monument to a miner. An unusual welcome that immediately lets you know where you have come to. There is a boulevard surrounded by trees leading to the city centre. It’s also a park-museum. On a grassy island between the two directions, there are industrial and mining exhibits. The car does not allow you to observe it carefully, so it’s better to take a walk. The most striking exhibit is a dump truck. Without a photo with this yellow giant, hardly anyone will believe that you visited Bor. Just be careful when crossing the street, it’s pretty busy. It is one of the most beautiful ones we have seen, and certainly the most unusual one.

We reach the Museum of Mining and Metallurgy. The renovation, which is much needed, is in progress, so its cramped space is even more reduced. But there are interesting things to see. The permanent exhibition shows the development of mining and metallurgy from prehistoric times to the present, the history of the Bor Mine, and the most important people. In addition to antique mining tools, the most interesting exhibits include a bronze belt from the 5th century BC and a set of gold women’s jewellery from the 2nd century AD, which is quite sophisticated. The Vlach corner is also charming, and it presents the material and spiritual culture of the Vlach community of Bor and its surroundings. In front of the entrance, sculptures by famous academic artists are exhibited.

Nearby is the central square and a monument to Đorđe (Georg) Weifert, the founder of the Bor Mine. Wander around the city and discover the buildings of French architecture, and if you have enough time, stop by the Zoo. Not far away is Brestovačka Spa, tucked away in fairy-tale nature with thermo-mineral water that even ancient Romans used for healing. And its famous historical buildings are must-see.

Small, but unexpectedly green, likeable and with quite a diverse offer. And its surroundings are even more diverse.

BECAUSE NATURE IS THE MASTER OF STOL

The road to Mt. Stol offers extraordinary scenes. It leads past the mines of the Bor Mine. Its size is difficult to describe. Mountains of excavations. They stretch indefinitely. And huge machines that never seem to turn off their engines. The Jama café used to be open to visitors here, 400 meters underground. It must have been a special experience to chat over coffee or a drink deep in the stomach of the earth.

And while, on the one hand, miners are tirelessly mining, on the other, nature is defying them. With its wilderness and lushness and rocky peaks of Veliki and Mali Krš mountains. The last section of the road to Stol is quite narrow, followed by a macadam road to the Mountain Home. In front of it, there is a field with goals for football competitions, and a few steps further, there is a pond with a decorated seating platform. Here you can relax and breathe in the nature. And enjoy the view of the highest peak, Goli Krš at 1,156 meters of altitude. As well as the view of forests, flower meadows, and limestone formations. The flat peaks and steep cliffs are a true paradise for hikers and scouts, and cyclists and all nature lovers climb the forest trails. Just nature and you. Alone. In perfect harmony.

BECAUSE BOR LAKE IS THE WATER TREASURE OF EASTERN SERBIA

At an almost mountainous altitude, at the foot of Crni Vrh, in the middle of the last century, man-tamed watercourses. Thus, tens of hectares of water oasis were created. Like a mirror reflecting the landscape. We sit on the shore at the Hotel Jezero, in a park with wooden benches with canopies. It could do with some decorating, primarily cleaning. If one ignores man’s arrogance and negligence, the scenes are like in a fairy tale. A magical autumn dance of sun rays and calm water. Complete serenity and quiet. It is only disturbed by a middle-aged gentleman who daringly swims all the way to the other shore. At that moment, a young man arrives on the SUP board and joins him. Thumbs-up to these true water lovers. They are not discouraged by the chilly October water. And, we felt the coldness by just looking at them. So, let’s warm up a bit. With Drive Cafe coffee. It is still warm. Always with a full, perfect taste. And we sweeten it a bit. With Drive Cafe croissants. Fresh and soft. Surrounded by this beauty, they are even sweeter.

Clear Bor Lake, surrounded by deciduous and coniferous forests, green glades, and meadows, attracts more and more visitors. Mostly in the summer, when thousands of swimmers seek refreshment on several landscaped and many wild beaches. Then it becomes lively, cheerful, and noisy. But the sunny autumn suits it. Then it becomes calm, quiet, secluded, and tame.

BECAUSE IN THE RESTAURANT BRAVO, THE FOOD GETS AN APPLAUSE

We are driving towards the highway to Belgrade, believing firmly that there must be a convenient place to tame our hunger along the way. Because there is no place in Serbia with twenty kilometres of roads without a restaurant. There must be one. So, we arrived in Boljevac. The locals directed us to the Bravo café-restaurant. In the very heart of the town, with a large garden and sophisticated interior decoration. Is this a good place to eat, we wonder suspiciously. A friendly young waiter recommends oven-baked gnocchi with chicken. Perfect and abundant. And ribs with cream. They stick to the fingers. They must have been made by a skilled chef. In the end, we unanimously say: “Bravissimo!” to Bravo. So, there are some fancy establishments with traditionally prepared food. We went there by chance, and we are planning to return to it at the first opportunity.

At the foot of the Šar Mountains, on the banks of Bistrica there is a town. From the ancient times, it was important for travellers and traders. Since the beginning of the 18^th century, it has been part of the Serbian state and has been getting stronger since. It flourished during the reign of King Milutin and Emperor Dušan. It is considered a museum of Serbian medieval history. From that time, it inherited 33 Serbian Orthodox shrines and monuments.

THE HOLY ARCHANGELS MONASTERY, THE MOST LUXURIOUS ESTATE OF THE NEMANJIĆ DINASTY

Emperor Dušan built his estate from 1343 to 1352 at the foot of a steep cliff in the Bistrica canyon. The land near the caravan route that connected Skopje and Prizren, the then capitals of the Serbian state. It was built at an older place of worship, where the emperor had recovered after a serious illness. On a huge property, he built two churches – his burial church dedicated to the Holy Archangels, and another one dedicated to Saint Nicholas. Both were made in Raška style, with Serbian-Byzantine elements. The emperor connected the estate to Visegrad, his palace on top of a cliff. “There is nothing equal to it under the sun,” says a 15th century record about the Holy Archangels Church. It impressed with its unsurpassed beauty and intricate floor mosaics. The church was considered the pinnacle of the Serbian religious architecture, a building befitting the most powerful Serbian ruler.

Only a few stones remain of the former splendor and beauty. The Ottomans looted and destroyed monastery in the middle of the 15th century, and razed it to the ground in 1615. The walls covered with marble were used for the construction of the Sinan Pasha mosque in Prizren. The remains were conserved after the Second World War, and monastic life was restored at the end of the 20th century. It was looted and burned down again in 1999, and then in 2004 in the March Pogrom.

Today, the monastery is looked after by a superior, two monks and support staff. Pupils of the Prizren Seminary often help. In addition to the guard at the entrance, the placed is guarded by a pair of cautious, but peaceful German shepherds. You can see the remains of the ramparts, two churches and dining halls, fragments of stone decorations with dragon and lion motifs, an old icon of the Archangel Michael, a model of the church, an improvised altar and a marble slab at the grave site of Dušan the Strong. In 1927, the relics were moved to the Patriarchate, and in 1968, they were solemnly laid to rest in the Church of St. Mark in Belgrade.

We spent the night in Dušan’s lodge, part of the monastery. It is clean and pleasant, with the splashing of Prizrenska Bistrica in the background. All lodgers eat lunch together at 10 o’clock. After the prayer, we share the meal and a relaxed conversation with the monks. After sharing bread with the guardians of Dušan’s legacy and following in his footsteps, we leave more experienced, calmer and stronger.

OUR LADY OF LJEVIŠ IS A RESSURECTING SANCTUARY

In the center of the city, on a small square between two alleys, we see a church with charred and sooty walls, windows patched up with sheet metal and wood, surrounded by barbed wire. The door is closed.

It is an endowment of King Milutin and is dedicated to the Dormition of the Mother of God. The temple was built in the 13th century on the site of a 10-century early Christian place of worship and remodelled in the first decade of the 14th century. It was turned into a five-domed church, with the second floor and high bell tower added. For centuries, it was the Prizren cathedral. In the middle of the 18th century, it was turned into a mosque known as Cuma Cami, the frescoes hammered down and covered up with a thick layer of plaster. They saw the light of day two centuries later, when the restored pillars were demolished. It was badly damaged by fire in the March Pogrom.

The interior is rather gloomy. There is a small altar with icons and candlesticks, without an iconostasis, the dome is grey and visibly burned. Some wall frescoes have survived, however badly damaged. The most significant is the fresco of the Virgin of Ljeviš with infant Christ in her lap, picking fruit from a basket and feeding the hungry. It shines even brighter in the omnipresent chaos. Many deeds of our ancestors were dedicated to this icon; many prayers were addressed to it, many souls inspired and illuminated by it. One worshiper left a note in Arabic on the wall: “The pupil of my eye is the nest of your beauty.”

In 2006, this church and three other Serbian monasteries entered the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List under the common name Medieval Monuments in Kosovo and Metohija as endangered heritage.

„Thank you, thank you very much for visiting us,” says Father Vladan, a brave young clergyman who perseveres with his family. We turn to have one last look at the Virgin of Ljeviš, the suffering and the victorious.

THE PRIZREN SEMINARY IS A CRADLE OF SPIRITUALITY AND KNOWLEDGE

The seminary opened in 1871 as a theological and teaching school, the only one in Old Serbia. It was a pillar helping people preserve their religion, language, culture, and identity during the troubled times at the long-suffering soil of Metohija. Today’s role of the seminary is equally important.

It is located in the heart of the old bazaar, tucked away among mostly oriental-style houses, protected by iron doors. The guard opens them for us. We enter a perfectly arranged yard decorated with flowers and trees. Calm and tame. A world unto itself. A woman waves to us from the window and offers refreshments. Later, she reveals that after retiring she escaped from Belgrade to this old king’s capital and found peace. In the yard thee is a house of Sima Andrejević Igumanov, a Serbian merchant and philanthropist. He left it to the seminary „where the sons of my homeland – Old Serbia will study and prepare for spiritual knowledge“, so it says on his bust in the yard. The hall of the main building includes an exhibition of old photos of the building and Serbian patriarchs, some important documents, and relics.

During the Ottoman rule, the seminary was on the verge of closing, which was luckily prevented due to the ingenuity of the Russian consul and the influence of the Russian emperor. It suspended its work for several years during the World War II, and evacuated to Niš during the 1999 bombing. During the pogrom of March 2004 the seminary caught fire and all its contents burned down. Fortunately, the school’s archives and library of about 15,000 books were evacuated five years earlier, and thus saved. The school returned to Prizren in 2011, and the buildings were gradually renovated. The tradition of commemorating Emperor Dušan in his Holy Archangels on the first day of the school year was also revived.

Prizren is much more than an imperial city, and the seminary is more than an educational institution. Here, during the retreat of the Serbian army in 1915, King Petar I Karađorđević hid the crown, saying that the symbol of the state must not go into exile: „Let it be in Prizren, the city of our greatest glory, and now our greatest suffering“.

THE TOWN OF PRIZREN USED TO BE THE CAPITAL OF THE SERBIAN KINGDOM

To get to the fortress on the hill above the town you can rent an ATV or hike, which is harder, but much more interesting. On the way you will pass two churches – the Church of the Holy Salvation and St. Nedelya Church. Both date back from the 14th century. You cannot go inside, as both are closed.

According to official data, the Prizren fortress, or Kaljaja, was built by the Byzantines in the 11th century and later expanded by Emperor Dušan. He occasionally stayed here, as did his son Uroš. During more than four centuries of Ottoman rule, the fortress took its present form. The walls have been restored and look impressive. You can walk through the once well-fortified city along dirt and stone paths. We look at the amphitheater with a stage and the stone remains of the buildings. We guess what they were for and what secrets they hide. There is quite a number of visitors, mostly young people. The biggest crowd is on the spacious terrace. The view opens to Prizren and the entire Metohija, all the way to the Albanian Alps.